9th & 18th Arrondissement Specialty
3 Rue Marcadet, 18th Arrondissement
Café Lomi is a bit out of the way, deep in the Goutte d’Or neighborhood of the 18th arrondissement. But the lack of distraction means it’s a great spot to buckle down, drink endless cappuccinos (it has its own roaster), down one of the light-as-air croissants, and get some work done. The interior is a whimsical mix of antique trunks that act as stand-ins for tables, exposed redbrick walls, and lots of potted green plants. We love the high ceilings and huge windows that combat Paris’s often cloudy days.
À la Mère de Famille
35 Rue du Faubourg, 9th
The exterior of À la Mère de Famille—an emerald-green storefront with more windows than walls—looks like a jewelry box, or rather, a chocolate box; you can see the cakes and chocolates and towers of beautifully packaged bars from down the block. Open since 1761, one of the many pleasures of this particular confectioner is the breadth of old-world caramels, nougat, boiled sweets, and marshmallows. And nothing much has changed inside, either. Taking in the old tile floor, the floor-to-ceiling shelves stacked with preserves and syrups, and the elaborate table displays as you make your way to the ice cream counter (go for the chocolate) is an exercise in both nostalgic pleasure and calorie control.
22 Rue des Martyrs, 9th
Both the original in the 9th and the new Tea Room are the kinds of Parisian pastry shops you might dream of, with pretty tiled floors, powder-blue walls, old-world display cases, and dainty packaging. Both spots are great for stocking up on everything from molded chocolates to macarons, as well as traditional sweets, jams, and marmalades to take home as gifts—you’ll also want to grab a cream-filled pastry for the ride.
51 Rue des Martyrs, 9th Arrondissement
Organic cakes, gluten-free treats, Coutume coffee and market-fresh ingredients are the name of the game at this sweet, homey café. It’s a fixture of the brunch scene on the weekends, while on weekdays it’s the laptop crowd who dominate the space. Should you get hooked on their muesli, cookies, or cakes, you can pick up a few pre-made packs to bake at home, too.
Bob’s Bake Shop
12 Esplanade Nathalie Sarraute, 18th
It's all baked on-site at this latest venture from Bob, from the hand-rolled bagels to the lattice-topped pies. While the menu channels America, the prices are a bit higher than what you'd expect to pay in the states for a shmear. It's still delicious, and fulfills that very specific only-a-bagel-will-do desire.
Galeries Lafayette, 40 Boulevard Haussmann, 9th
Parisians swear Pierre Hermé's macarons are the best in town, and we're inclined to agree. After all, the pastry wunderkind (he began his career as an apprentice to Gaston Lenôtre at the age of 14, before becoming the pastry chef of Fauchon when he was only 24) is known for infusing his ganaches with interesting (and foolproof) combinations, like his famous Ispahan, which blends rose, lychee, and raspberry. The chocolates shouldn't be missed either, and neither should the croissants.
La Ferme Saint Hubert
36 Rue de Rochechouart, 9th
The variegated marble walls, cow figurines, mosaic tile floor, and checkered apron staff sure are charming—but it's all totally unnecessary, too, as we'd happily visit a broom closet for the cheeses here. Sitting on top of a hilly street in the 9th, you'll find a country's worth of varieties—both stinky and delicate—and the know-how behind the counter to point you to something you're going to love. For those who are just passing through, they can vacuum pack fragile cheeses for travel.
71 Rue de Provence, 9th Arrondissement
This is so much more than a grocery store: In fact, in true French fashion, they do simple clothing—streamlined totes, striped tees—really, really well. And at prices you’d expect from a supermarket. The baby selection is particularly sweet. Other locations: 4th Arrondissement, 6th Arrondissement, plus others around the city.
Frenchie To Go
9 Rue du Nil, 2nd
Inspired by American delis and cafés, the emphasis (as its name would suggest) is on take-out—though you can just as easily eat the fish 'n chips, lobster rolls, and marbled pastrami reubens at one of the spot’s high top tables. Like the rest of the Frenchie family, the food is sublimely good: We’re particularly partial to the breakfast.
Boulevard de la Chapelle, 18th
Marché Barbès is underneath a train trestle at the Barbès Metro station, and the rumble of the trains above only adds to the boisterous atmosphere of the place, which is always packed to the brim with shoppers rushing around and haggling with vendors. The goods here can be much less expensive than those in other markets around town, and while you probably won’t find a rare artisanal cheese, you can stock up on necessities for the week without breaking the bank. This neighborhood is also home to a lot of Paris’s immigrants, which means a much more diverse crowd and the added benefit of North and West African spices and peppers for sale. Photo credit: Eric Parker
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