9th & 18th Arrondissement Specialty

Establishment neighborhood
Café Lomi
3 Rue Marcadet, 18th Arrondissement
Café Lomi is a bit out of the way, deep in the Goutte d’Or neighborhood of the 18th arrondissement. But the lack of distraction means it’s a great spot to buckle down, drink endless cappuccinos (it has its own roaster), down one of the light-as-air croissants, and get some work done. The interior is a whimsical mix of antique trunks that act as stand-ins for tables, exposed redbrick walls, and lots of potted green plants. We love the high ceilings and huge windows that combat Paris’s often cloudy days.
À la Mère de Famille
35 Rue du Faubourg, 9th
The exterior of À la Mère de Famille—an emerald-green storefront with more windows than walls—looks like a jewelry box, or rather, a chocolate box; you can see the cakes and chocolates and towers of beautifully packaged bars from down the block. Open since 1761, one of the many pleasures of this particular confectioner is the breadth of old-world caramels, nougat, boiled sweets, and marshmallows. And nothing much has changed inside, either. Taking in the old tile floor, the floor-to-ceiling shelves stacked with preserves and syrups, and the elaborate table displays as you make your way to the ice cream counter (go for the chocolate) is an exercise in both nostalgic pleasure and calorie control.
Pierre Hermé
Galeries Lafayette, 40 Boulevard Haussmann, 9th
Parisians swear Pierre Hermé's macarons are the best in town, and we're inclined to agree. After all, the pastry wunderkind (he began his career as an apprentice to Gaston Lenôtre at the age of 14, before becoming the pastry chef of Fauchon when he was only 24) is known for infusing his ganaches with interesting (and foolproof) combinations, like his famous Ispahan, which blends rose, lychee, and raspberry. The chocolates shouldn't be missed either, and neither should the croissants.
La Ferme Saint Hubert
36 Rue de Rochechouart, 9th
The variegated marble walls, cow figurines, mosaic tile floor, and checkered apron staff sure are charming—but it's all totally unnecessary, too, as we'd happily visit a broom closet for the cheeses here. Sitting on top of a hilly street in the 9th, you'll find a country's worth of varieties—both stinky and delicate—and the know-how behind the counter to point you to something you're going to love. For those who are just passing through, they can vacuum pack fragile cheeses for travel.
Marché Barbès
Boulevard de la Chapelle, 18th
Marché Barbès is underneath a train trestle at the Barbès Metro station, and the rumble of the trains above only adds to the boisterous atmosphere of the place, which is always packed to the brim with shoppers rushing around and haggling with vendors. The goods here can be much less expensive than those in other markets around town, and while you probably won’t find a rare artisanal cheese, you can stock up on necessities for the week without breaking the bank. This neighborhood is also home to a lot of Paris’s immigrants, which means a much more diverse crowd and the added benefit of North and West African spices and peppers for sale. Photo credit: Eric Parker
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