Travel

4th Arrondissement

Establishment neighborhood
The Kooples
31 Rue des Rosiers, 4th
Started by three brothers (whose family made its fortune from French brand, Comptoir des Cotonniers), this brand splashed out across Paris aggressively and loudly. Their ad campaigns—of stylish couples who both look, and dress alike—are a good reflection of the subtly tough and subtly unisex wares here. Leather bomber jackets, black skinny jeans, and streamlined sweaters are all part of the mix. Other locations: 2nd Arrondissement, 6th Arrondissement, plus other locations.
Carven
8 Rue Malher, 4th
Carmen de Tommaso’s label launched right in step with couture houses like Balmain and Christian Dior, with some pretty key differences. At just 5’1″, de Tommaso was intent on designing for petite women, and she used her travels to the far-flung corners of the globe as fodder for the pieces. Inspired by Africa and Asia, the line was always full of bright prints and stripes, and while it went dark for decades, the brand’s recent re-emergence plays homage to that early playfulness.
Lobato
6 Rue Malher, 4th
There aren’t any clownish shoes here—in fact, there’s very little in the way of color or pattern. Instead, proprietor Miguel Lobato has built his business over the past 10-plus years by selling relative classics from some of the accessory world’s most interesting designers (Martin Margiela, Lanvin, Chloé, Jerome Dreyfuss). In keeping with the low-profile but luxe vibe, you’ll have to hit the buzzer to gain access to this clean-lined space, but what’s on the other side isn’t intimidating: This is the sort of store where you’ll find the boots you’ll wear all season, and the bag you’ll carry for at least a year.
De Bouche à Oreille (Closed)
26 Rue Roi de Sicile, 4th
The handsome exterior—rendered in slate-grey—telegraphs the specifically old-fashioned aesthetic inside. Channeling the feel of a turn-of-the-century laboratory-meets-library, you'll find wonders from the natural world (shells, skeletons, taxidermy), alongside fleur-de-lis bookends and globes. There are a handful of antiques (chandeliers and the like), though a majority of the wares are excellent reproductions, meaning they have all the charm of the originals without the hefty price tags.
Petit Pan
76 Rue François Miron, 4th
Owned by Belgian artist Myriam De Loor and Chinese kitemaker Pan Gang, Petit Pan revolves around delicately patterned—and exuberantly colored—textiles, haberdashery, clothing, and home goods. There are oilcloth bibs, intricate little mobiles made from bamboo and silk, baby quilts, pendant lights, and even ceramic tiles, which are from a recent collaboration with Carocim (they've teamed up with Monoprix and Petit Bateau in the past). They also offer crafting workshops for kids where they can learn various trades like ceramics, textile design, sewing, and kite-making.
Miznon
22 Rue des Ecouffes, 4th
This tiny, super casual Tel Aviv transplant, located in the center of the Marais (known for its large concentration of falafel shops), doesn’t offer much in terms of seating other than a small communal table and a few counter seats, but what it lacks in accommodations, it more than makes up for in really good food. (You will most likely want to take your meal to go, anyway.) The menu offers loads of veggie options and is a cross between Israeli street eats and French cuisine: Think beef bourguignon pita with a side of whole-roasted cauliflower, washed down with beer or a glass of Israeli wine. For dessert, try the tarte tatin, also served in pita form.
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