4th Arrondissement Specialty
76 Rue des Tournelles, 4th
Fragments calls itself an espresso bar. It says so right there on the sign you see walking up Rue des Tournelles in Le Marais. What the sign doesn’t say is that this particular espresso bar is très, très chic.
30 Rue du Bourg Tibourg, 4th
Enlisted by Louis XIV's court to explore the tea trade in the 1600s, Nicolas and Pierre Mariage sailed the globe in search of exotic offerings, passing the mantle down from generation to generation. In 1854, Henri and Edouard Mariage settled on land and launched a tea wholesale business in Paris, catering to the city's finest hotels and restaurants. They didn't open their doors to the public until the 1980s—and business has been brisk, to say the least, ever since. Outfitted with colonial furnishings from the original Mariage Frères office (oversize tea canisters, heavy cabinetry, wicker furniture, potted palms), the Marais outpost offers a literal world of teas—along with small eats and a smattering of home goods, like teapots and gorgeously scented candles (Darjeeling is our favorite). There are outposts all over the city.
77 Rue St. Antoine, 4th
The farm behind this mini-chainlet is located in the Loire valley, where they make a range of unpasteurized cheeses, butters, yogurts, and crème fraîches from scratch—while aging the cheeses of area farmers. The demi-sel croquant unpasteurized butter is crazy delicious, and portable, as they're happy to vacuum pack it for the plane.
30 Rue François Miron, 4th
You could spend hours in this exotic shop, where the walls are lined with imported spices and other ingredients and large sacks filled with lentils, rice, and other staples dot the floor. Owned and operated by the same couple for many years, it’s become somewhat of an institution. Photograph by Marshall Segal
71 Rue St. Antoine, 4th
This is so much more than a grocery store: In fact, in true French fashion, it does simple clothing—streamlined totes, striped tees—really, really well. And at prices you’d expect from a supermarket. The baby selection is particularly sweet. Other locations: 9th Arrondissement, 6th Arrondissement, plus several others throughout the city.
31 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, 4th
Operating out of a little window stand on the Isle St. Louis, the ice creams and sorbets here justify the sometimes long lines. After all, it’s arguably the best in Paris. Enough said.
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