3rd & 4th Arrondissement Specialty
6 Rue du Forez, 3rd & 4th Arrondissement
In the Marais, Café Pinson is a godsend to the weary Parisian vegetarian. The hearty quinoa risotto and delicate miso soup are a step to counter all that double-cream Brie. If you’re here just to work, though, order a perfectly made almond milk latte and a few protein balls (small nuggets of seeds, dates, and nuts) and settle in among the rustic flagstone walls, checkerboard tables, and decorative Provençal tiles. And the Wi-Fi is super strong and reliable. There’s a second location on the Rue du Faubourg.
40 Rue Chapon, 3rd & 4th Arrondissement
The café crème at Loustic is unmatched in Paris, but the interiors of this Marais spot are just as lovely. It’s a narrow but ingeniously designed space, where a long wall of sofa seating pairs with tiny octagonal tables (just big enough for coffee and a book—or a laptop) jutting out of the wall. There’s a back room with a choice of graphic sofas and wicker chairs. Spanish-tiled floors, blush cushions, and plenty of red brick add touches of color, while a consistently bohemian, artsy crowd adds to the ambiance. Drink your way through a Chemex and flip through the supply of art house magazines when you need some downtime.
30 Rue du Bourg Tibourg, 4th
Enlisted by Louis XIV's court to explore the tea trade in the 1600s, Nicolas and Pierre Mariage sailed the globe in search of exotic offerings, passing the mantle down from generation to generation. In 1854, Henri and Edouard Mariage settled on land and launched a tea wholesale business in Paris, catering to the city's finest hotels and restaurants. They didn't open their doors to the public until the 1980s—and business has been brisk, to say the least, ever since. Outfitted with colonial furnishings from the original Mariage Frères office (oversize tea canisters, heavy cabinetry, wicker furniture, potted palms), the Marais outpost offers a literal world of teas—along with small eats and a smattering of home goods, like teapots and gorgeously scented candles (Darjeeling is our favorite). There are outposts all over the city.
Marché des Enfants Rouges
39 Rue de Bretagne, 3rd
At 400 years old, the Marais-based Marché des Enfants Rouges is worth browsing whether you're hungry or not (you can always stock up on fresh-cut flowers, ephemera, and larder-worthy oils and preserves). But bring an appetite—you'll find a seemingly endless sprawl of food vendors hawking everything from tagines to crepes to hearty sandwiches. Our pick: Chez Taeko's stand, which serves delicious, authentic Japanese fare.
77 Rue St. Antoine, 4th
The farm behind this mini-chainlet is located in the Loire valley, where they make a range of unpasteurized cheeses, butters, yogurts, and crème fraîches from scratch—while aging the cheeses of area farmers. The demi-sel croquant unpasteurized butter is crazy delicious, and portable, as they're happy to vacuum pack it for the plane.
3 Rue Charles-François Dupuis, 3rd
For more than 200 years, Goumanyat has been a go-to spot for Parisian chefs looking for hard-to-find ingredients and spices. They specialize in saffron, which is stored in huge glass jars behind the counter, and grown on their farm in Iran. They’re located in a fittingly historic space that was formerly an apothecary, but they keep very irregular hours, so it’s best to call ahead before you drop by.
30 Rue François Miron, 4th
You could spend hours in this exotic shop, where the walls are lined with imported spices and other ingredients and large sacks filled with lentils, rice, and other staples dot the floor. Owned and operated by the same couple for many years, it’s become somewhat of an institution. Photograph by Marshall Segal
38 Rue Debelleyme, 3rd
This mini-chainlet is now three Paris locations strong (with two outposts in London), which makes a lot of sense: The bread really is distinguishably excellent, which in a place like Paris, says a lot. Though the sourdough loaves fly off the shelves, we love their nut breads—along with the fact that you can purchase by the half or quarter loaf if you can't take down the entire thing. There's usually a line, and while there's nothing to be done about that, you can always duck into La Cuisine de Bar instead. It's a sandwich shop next to the location in the 6th, where they make sandwiches from Poilâne bread. Other locations: Saint-Germain-des-Prés and Eiffel Tower district.
109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
We like to take a detour here while shopping on rue Vieille du Temple. Though the buckwheat crepes are the main draw, there’s a small shop attached to the café that sells jams, ciders, and delicious cheeses.
71 Rue Saint-Antoine, 4th
This is so much more than a grocery store: In fact, in true French fashion, it does simple clothing—streamlined totes, striped tees—really, really well. And at prices you’d expect from a supermarket. The baby selection is particularly sweet. Other locations: 9th Arrondissement, 6th Arrondissement, plus several others throughout the city.
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