18th Arrondissement

Establishment neighborhood
Café Lomi
3 Rue Marcadet, 18th
Café Lomi is a bit out of the way, deep in the Goutte d’Or neighborhood of the 18th arrondissement. But the lack of distraction means it’s a great spot to buckle down, drink endless cappuccinos (it has its own roaster), down one of the light-as-air croissants, and get some work done. The interior is a whimsical mix of antique trunks that act as stand-ins for tables, exposed redbrick walls, and lots of potted green plants. We love the high ceilings and huge windows that combat Paris’s often cloudy days.
Bouillon Pigalle
22 Blvd. de Clichy, 18th
Bouillon Pigalle is a restaurant of the proletariat. Though it would be more accurate to call it a restaurant of the proletariat of Paris who favor watercress salad, escargots, beef bourguignon, frites, and a menu that is as true to a bistro menu as it can be. Historically, in French restaurant vernacular, a "bouillon" is a restaurant that served bouillon-which is to say good, afforable food, that appealed to the working class. And Bouillon Pigalle is the 2018 version: 300 seats; a festive, bustling vibe; and a crowd willing to wait the better part of an hour for table. No matter. The profiteroles are that good.
16 Rue la Vieuville, 18th
If you happen into this Montmartre boutique when artist and owner Bruno Hadjadj is on hand, you can expect to stay for at least an hour: He's fun, and kind, and he has exquisite taste, which is represented in everything from the mid-century modern furniture scattered about the shop (all for sale) to the racks, which are lined with the best pieces from Isabel Marant, Helmut Lang, and Acne. (His wife, stylist Roberta Oprandi, can lay equal claim.) The pair recently took possession of a former stationery shop across the street and opened Spree Galerie to showcase the work of both Hadjadj and all their artist friends. The wonderfully printed exterior—Papiers Peints—remains.
Marché Barbès
Blvd. de la Chapelle, 18th
Marché Barbès is underneath a train trestle at the Barbès Metro station, and the rumble of the trains above only adds to the boisterous atmosphere of the place, which is always packed to the brim with shoppers rushing around and haggling with vendors. The goods here can be much less expensive than those in other markets around town, and while you probably won’t find a rare artisanal cheese, you can stock up on necessities for the week without breaking the bank. This neighborhood is also home to a lot of Paris’s immigrants, which means a much more diverse crowd and the added benefit of North and West African spices and peppers for sale. Photo credit: Eric Parker