11th Arrondissement

Establishment neighborhood
Ober Mamma
107 Blvd. Richard Lenoir, 11th
This is a true trattoria in the middle of Paris, with great platters of antipasti, thin-crust pizzas, and surprisingly big bowls of house-made pasta (definitely not the skimpy starter size—these are mains). The interior immediately suggests a good time with long electric-blue leather benches running the length of the walls, offset by yellow table mats on quintessentially Parisian round tables. Expect a tight squeeze: This place is perpetually packed with locals downing glasses of sparkling Lambrusco and rounding off with a few bites of the sublime tiramisu.
Le Perchoir
14 Rue Crespin du Gast, 11th
The young team behind this growing concept came up with the genius idea of opening bars in disused spaces all over Paris—on rooftops, at the old Pavillon at the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, and on a houseboat parked on the Seine. The newest locale, right on top of the Gare de l’Est might just be their greatest conquest to date: In addition to an incredible view and the trademark cocktails, you'll find snacks by souped-up kebab joint Grillé.
Hervé van der Straeten
11 Rue Ferdinand Duval, 11th
While you might have seen Hervé van der Straeten wide gold cuffs and triangulated necklaces on Net-a-Porter or in the cases at Neiman's, that range is just a tiny piece of this designer's empire. His furniture—which is all made in his workshop in Paris—is equally bold, and often more colorful. It's essentially like a more restrained spin on Memphis: It could have totally worked on the set of Ruthless People, but it doesn't look out of place in muted living rooms either.
French Trotters
30 Rue de Charonne, 11th
Now two locations strong, French Trotters pretty much epitomizes what a great boutique should be: Beyond a host of exclusive collaborations, their buyers manage to zero in on the best and most relevant items from the lines they stock. Everything, from the perfectly turned out Michel Vivien suede booties, to the slouchy Jerome Dreyfuss totes, to the asymmetrical jackets from Humanoid, seems like an important wardrobe building block. Meanwhile, don’t miss the very well-priced house label.
8-10 Passage Bullourde, 11th
Helmed by Audrey Halin and Marie Leonetti, two 30-somethings with an inarguably excellent knack for finding buried treasures, Bulle (which means Bubble in French) sells those treasures, reimagined. Whether it's a mid-century credenza that's been revitalized with a some cherry red paint, or a sturdy sideboard, inset with tiles, the pieces here don't feel retro or kitschy at all. They're fun and bright and wonderfully modern. There's also an in-house line of new pieces that are indistinguishable from their vintage peers (but obviously, not one of a kind).
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