11th & 12th Arrondissement Restaurants
107 Blvd. Richard Lenoir, 11th
This is a true trattoria in the middle of Paris, with great platters of antipasti, thin-crust pizzas, and surprisingly big bowls of house-made pasta (definitely not the skimpy starter size—these are mains). The interior immediately suggests a good time with long electric-blue leather benches running the length of the walls, offset by yellow table mats on quintessentially Parisian round tables. Expect a tight squeeze: This place is perpetually packed with locals downing glasses of sparkling Lambrusco and rounding off with a few bites of the sublime tiramisu.
131 Avenue Parmentier, 11th
Le Dauphin is immediately next door to its sister restaurant, Le Chateaubriand. Locals hover around the marbled bar (there are only a handful of tables) for well-priced—though complex—small plates and surprisingly affordable wine. That said, we recommend the cocktails, which are every bit as good as the food.
Le Bistrot Paul Bert
18 Rue Paul Bert, 11th
Bistrot Paul Bert is what any French restaurant ought to be: It features old-school, understated décor; simple but solid food at reasonable prices (including an excellent entrecôte); and brusque waiters. Don’t skip dessert, particularly the not-too-sweet tarte tatin.
80 Rue de Charonne, 11th
The chefs behind Septime seem to understand that you can’t fail when you start with the best fresh ingredients. This isn’t to say that the cool, pared-back space isn’t innovative—it just isn’t flashy. The lunch menu is a steal at 28 euros, though if you’re willing to splurge, opt for the “surprise” menu: You won’t regret it.
32 Rue Saint-Maur, 11th
Parisian dining has a reputation for being a little stodgy at times, what with the ubiquitous gilded interiors and price fixe-only menu—but at Le Servan in the 11th, you’ll find neither. Instead, chef Tatiana Levha, and her sister, Katia, offer up a short but sweet a la carte menu of Asian-inspired classics that changes pretty much daily. As for decor, it’s all neutral, with a brass-top bar. Walk-ins fare well at lunch, but make a reservation for dinner.
129 Avenue Parmentier, 11th
The dining room might not look like all that much, but this is one of those restaurants that changes how people think about food. Chef Inaki Aizpitarte, a pioneer in Paris’s neo-bistro scene, deconstructs traditional French dishes and reassembles them in wildly inventive, globally influenced ways. Despite the kitchen fireworks, it never feels pretentious here, which is probably why locals and tourists alike line up out the door to get a table (reservations are available only for the first seating).
80 Rue de Charonne, 11th
While it's nearly-impossible to get a reservation at Septime—and a bar stool at their wine bar is hard to come by, too—you’ll probably have better luck at their newest venture, Clamato, a seafood-centric joint that refuses reservations. Also, it’s open all day on Saturday and Sunday, which is a rarity in Paris.
Bistro aux Vieux Chene (Closed)
7 Rue du Dahomey, 11th
If Bistro Paul Bert is too busy (which is often the case), grab a seat at the zinc bar here. It’s friendlier, much less hyped, and specializes in reliably wonderful bistro classics at always reasonable prices.
You may also like