Travel

France

Establishment neighborhood
La Réserve
42 Av. Gabriel, 8th
At La Réserve, in a building once occupied by Napoleon’s stepbrother, references to the Belle Époque would be hard to miss: Expect gilded columns, heavy drapes, and velvet tufting…everywhere. The bedrooms and suites—there are only 40—are very fin de siècle French, but more restrained in style than the common spaces. Swiss anti-aging clinic Nescens runs the spa. Executive chef Jérôme Banctel oversees the two restaurants within the hotel. Le Gabriel, the superior of the two, earned a third Michelin star in 2024.
Cheval Blanc Paris
8 Quai du Louvre, 1st
Cheval Blanc’s 72 spacious rooms and suites occupy what was once the south end of La Samaritaine, one of Paris’s great department stores, and the hotel retains much of the building’s original Art Deco character. (Samaritaine, also now under LVMH ownership, continues to operate next door.) Rooms on the higher floors enjoy views of more distant monuments; from the terrace garden on the rooftop, guests get all 360 degrees, sweeping from the Eiffel Tower to Sacré Cœur. The mostly-subterranean Dior spa is complete with six lush treatment rooms, a tiled indoor pool that looks out over the Seine, and a hammam, sauna, and snow shower, which is exactly what you think it is. The crown jewel of their culinary program is three-Michelin-starred Pléntitude; reservations are difficult to snatch and worth booking your whole trip around.
Hôtel Belles Rives
33 Boulevard Edouard Baudoin, Juan-les-Pins
In Juan-les-Pins is the small, storied, glamorous Hôtel Belle Rives—the Riviera home of F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald (there’s no better time to read Tender Is the Night). It’s a meticulously preserved, pastel Art Deco jewel box, with interiors that haven’t changed much since the Fitzgeralds were in residence. Lavish guest rooms with balconettes scented by the trailing bougainvillea look over the cobalt sea, while the pink marble lobby and wood-paneled bar filled with paintings summon a time when aperitifs were de rigueur and people dressed for dinner. Have breakfast on the balcony, then head down to the beach to reserve your sun bed and striped parasol. After a day swimming laps across the mirror-clear, calm bay, a massage in the spa sets you up for a long dinner in one of the many restaurants populating this particularly beautiful coastal stretch. A predinner champagne cocktail on the blue-and-terra-cotta-tiled terrace to a soundtrack of live jazz tinkling on the piano is what summer on the Riviera is all about.