Travel

Indre By

Establishment neighborhood
Torvehallerne Market
Frederiksborggade 21, Indre By
This glass-enclosed market has some sixty stalls manned by butchers, florists, bakers, and vegetable sellers alongside several restaurants, and coffee counters. (All of Copenhagen's best chefs buy their produce here.) Wander through the market to sample the assortment of—ridiculously decadent—Danish specialty's like snaps (herb infused spirits) and, at Christmastime, risengrod (a thick rice pudding topped with butter, cinnamon, and sugar). If you happen to be in Copenhagen during the summer months, stop by Hija de Sachez, a taqueria run by former Noma alum Rosio Sanchez. It's as authentic as it comes in this part of the world. (They're open seasonally April-October.)
Stilleben
Niels Hemmingsensg. 3, Indre By
Upon meeting at Art College in Denmark, designers Ditte Reckweg and Jelena Schou Nordentoft bonded over their shared love of ceramics, glass, and craftsmanship. The duo named their joint venture Stilleben, after the German art genre that describes the depiction of inanimate objects. The space itself is made up of pastel-hued walls and minimalist shelving—the perfect backdrop to display Reckweg and Nordentoft's hand-selected treasures—everything from Japanese tea pots to Danish textiles. The shelves are also stocked with their own branded prints, ceramics, and tableware.
Admiralgade 26
Admiralgade 26, Indre By
Best described as Nordic-Japanese fusion, Admiralgade breaks Copenhagen's carb-loading breakfast tradition with a full Japanese spread (pickled fish, rice, miso soup). Open all day, the kitchen formally closes at 10 pm, but in the laid-back spirit of the city, the cooks rustle up sensational late-night snacks for the barflies. Aside from the food, the decor is another reason to make a reservation. The building dates as far back as 1796 but the interior is all washed stone walls, mismatched chairs, and bleached wood. Owned by the same people as the always full Ved Standen 10 wine bar, the wine list does not disappoint with a stellar selection available by the glass.
Apollo Bar
Nyhavn 2, Indre By
Chef Frederik Bille Brahe's (of Atelier September fame) latest food and wine venture has one of the most beautiful settings in Copenhagen—the modern art-filled Charlottenborg gallery. The restaurant space employs Mondrian-esque color blocking with navy velvet seats, white walls, and a red bar. No matter where you sit you'll catch glimpses of the marble busts and modern artworks housed in the adjacent gallery. An added bonus in the warmer months is the picturesque courtyard, ideal for a pre-dinner drink.
Bror
Skt. Peders Stræde 24A, Indre By
Bror is Danish for brother; while not blood related, the restaurant was started by two friends and former Noma alums wanting to put their own spin on New Nordic cuisine. The concept at Bror may be simple (tasting menus with wine pairings), but the food is challenging and comforting all at the same time, featuring under-utilized parts of the animal (bull testicles, monkfish liver) cooked to perfection and elevated to fine-dining status. Small plates are served in advance of the tasting menu courses and can be anything from cod cheeks to mackerel heads. The wine list features only natural and organic wines reflecting the back-to-basics attitude that characterizes the food. Bror's founders wanted to show guests that the less desirable parts of the animal are no less delicious and for those of us concerned with sustainability, using the whole animal is paramount. If you're an adventurous eater, dinner at Bror is a no-brainer, but for the more squeamish among us there are plenty of vegetarian options and food intolerances are happily accommodated.
Hallernes Smørrebrød
Rømersgade 18, Indre By
Hallernes Smørrebrød's glass display cases at their stand in Torvehallerne Market are full of the artfully presented open-faced sandwiches that are this café's namesake. Small rye bread slices are topped with every Nordic ingredient imaginable—classic herring, liver paté, salmon... There are about three bites to each slice so order a few to-go, pick up a coffee from the nearby Coffee Collective, and spend an hour exploring this world-famous food market.
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