Travel

China

Establishment neighborhood
Dragon’s Back
Hong Kong Trail Section 8, Shek O Road, Chai Wan
A hike along Dragon’s Back takes you across a mountain ridge on the southeast side of Hong Kong Island, and it’s one of the most iconic routes in the area for its views of Tai Tam Bay. There are a few ways to do it, but it’s easiest to take the subway to Chai Wan, walk 10 minutes to the trailhead, and follow the trail all the way down to Shek O Beach. There, grab lunch and watch surfers before taking the bus back into town from Shek O (or hiking back the way you came).
Penicillin
23 Hollywood Rd., Central
If you aren’t looking for Penicillin, you’ll miss it, but this teensy cocktail bar is one of Hong Kong’s best. The bartenders focus on innovation (which they’ve translated into the space; notice the scientific, lab-like surroundings), and they’ve designed a closed-loop model that eliminates food waste and minimizes their carbon footprint. People love the pisco sour, which tastes like White Rabbit candy. Ask the bartenders about their fermentation masterclass, which runs most weekdays.
Villepin
53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central
This gallery on Hollywood Road, right in Central’s main drag, hosts masterfully curated exhibitions featuring a global roster of artists. While their exhibitions often highlight pan-Asian artists, the curation often has a French lens. (For example, an exhibition of Myonghi Kang’s paintings in dialogue with Gustave Courbet and Paul Cézanne, all in a gallery inspired by the Musée de l‘Orangerie.) The owners are a father-son duo of former French prime minister Dominique de Villepin and art collector Arthur de Villepin.
M+ Museum
38 Museum Dr., Tsim Sha Tsui
M+ is Hong Kong’s equivalent to NYC’s MoMA or London’s Tate Modern. The collection is global, but you’ll notice a focus on Hong Kong’s unique cultural heritage. That’s especially true in the Sigg gallery, which is focused entirely on contemporary Chinese art; it chronicles the last few decades of cultural and economic change in Hong Kong, exploring identity shifts through paintings, photography, sculpture, and installation art. The museum has also started conserving Hong Kong’s iconic neon signs, which are steadily disappearing from the city streets as the government flags them for removal; you can see a few of them in the galleries. We also loved the exhibitions on modern design and architecture, including an entire sushi bar that was dismantled in Tokyo and reconstructed in the galleries here.
Chi Lin Nunnery
5 Chi Lin Dr, Diamond Hill
This Buddhist temple, built in the style of the Tang dynasty, is a peaceful spot in the middle of Hong Kong’s otherwise hectic (and, at times, overwhelming) energy. Spend an hour here winding through the temple, visiting altars with massive golden statues of the Buddha and Buddhist deities, and then through the Nan Lian Garden next door, where there are exhibits dedicated to bonsai trees and traditional Chinese joinery. (If you look closely, you’ll notice the 360,000-square-foot temple is built without a single nail or screw.) The place is especially striking from the middle of the courtyard, where you see the super-traditional temple architecture with the backdrop of Hong Kong’s distinctive skyscrapers.
The Big Buddha and Po Lin Monastery
Ngong Ping, Lantau Island
Take a day trip to Lantau Island to visit the huge bronze Buddha statue (it’s a local landmark) and Po Lin Monastery at the summit, Ngong Ping. There’s an altar outside the monastery where people light incense and offer prayers—you’re welcome to join—before walking the 268 steps up to the Buddha. We suggest buying a ticket for the cable car to get up to Ngong Ping village, where the views are unreal. But on the way down, consider hiking: It’s a pleasant walk on a nice day.
Family Form
The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty
Lindsay Jang (also the founder of Yardbird and Ronin Snack Bar) started this workout studio, which runs classes out of the heated studio at the Upper House. Using small weights and dance-inspired movements, you’ll develop endurance, flexibility, and strength. It’s intense, but also totally cathartic. And because they limit class to about six people—the studio is tiny—you get the full force of the friendly instructors’ energy and attention.