Travel

Le Plateau-Mont-Royal

Establishment neighborhood
Michel Brisson
1074 W Laurier Avenue, Le Plateau-Mont-Royal
This clean, sleek, minimalist space mirrors its wares—lots of Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, and Acne Studios, which draw the city’s creative class (art directors, architects, and the like). There are plenty of pieces for both men and women, and the men’s rack has some pretty fantastic options for women, too. There’s a nice selection of accessories (wallets, backpacks, and totes) from WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie, a line started by local twin brothers Byron and Dexter Peart. There’s a second outpost in Old Montreal.
Le Rouge Gorge
1234 Av. Mont-Royal E., Plateau-Mont-Royal
Le Rouge Gorge is a roomy space with beautiful decorative touches that feel decidedly Parisian. A mix of marble-topped bar and table seating, black tile, exposed brick, and plenty of natural light by day and reflected light by night (from the many windows) contributes to the lively, brasserie-like vibe. The wine list is extensive with bottles ranging from average-priced to the more special, celebratory bottles for a splurge. The by-the-glass selection changes daily and the cocktails—mostly based on classics—have all been upgraded with Rouge George’s signature out-of-the-box touch.
Darling
4328 Boulevard Saint-Laurent, Plateau-Mont-Royal
Darling showcases many of the finer beers produced by Montreal’s many microbreweries. The food offering revolves around classic bar snacks like cheese boards, olives, and selections of Italian antipasti. The space itself is incredibly inviting and evocative of the decadence of the ’30s. In contrast to many of the pared-back industrial bars that dot the city, Darling is a feast for the eyes—multiple types of lighting, books scattered about, a mixture of low and high seating, and a polished stone floor, all warmed up with plenty of plants and natural light during the day. While roomy, the space fills up night after night.
Chez Suzanne
20 Av. Duluth E., Plateau-Mont-Royal
Chez Suzanne owns the fairly novel concept of being a dumpling speakeasy, yet conversely, the space has no Chinese design elements and has abandoned the traditionally dark speakeasy-style décor for something lighter and greener. Serving the aforementioned dumplings, twelve lines of craft beer, and an excellent selection of cocktails, Chez Suzanne is a fresh-feeling spot for comfort food and some of the latest beers produced by Montreal’s thriving microbrewery community.
Ibiki
4357 Rue Saint-Laurent, Plateau-Mont-Royal
Ibiki first opened its doors back in 2011 and exists today as a kind of clothing/publications/stationery/housewares emporium for those with more minimalist leanings. There's an artful curation (largely greys, black, navy) of cult labels big and small, like Black Crane, Y-3, Oak NYC, Norse Projects, Converse x Play by CDG sneakers, plus books by D.A.P. Artbooks and MoMA Publications as well as copies of indie magazines, like Apartamento, Tunica, and Record—all of which are worth leafing through.
Schwartz’s Deli
3895 Boulevard Saint-Laurent, Plateau-Mont-Royal
Come for the signature sandwich—smoked meat piled atop chewy, house-made rye bread and finished with golden mustard—and stay for the old-school setting (Schwartz's has occupied the same spot since its founder Reuben—a Jewish immigrant from Romania—opened the doors in 1928). The brisket is marinated in spices and herbs for a full ten days prior to entering the smoker, no chemicals added. If in doubt when ordering, the fail-safe method is to point at another diner’s plate, but for the brisket aficionados out there, the sandwiches come lean, medium, or fatty—we recommend medium for that sweet spot of crispy edges and tender meat.
Hof Kelsten
4524 Boulevard Saint Laurent, Plateau-Mont-Royal
Although this bakery has only been churning out their specialties—crusty French baguettes, lightly sweet challah, and fluffy panettone (to name a few)—for only a few years, it's become an institution in the city. Owner Jeffrey Finkelstein's talent for what he does is both evident in his incredible breads and pastries (he's said he adds a "Jewish twist" to everything he bakes) and resume, which includes positions as both The French Laundry and Per Se. A great spot to grab a coffee and pastry to enjoy at the communal table. (Note: the buttery, fluffy scrambled eggs are worth trying.)
Kem CoBa
60 Av. Fairmount W., Plateau-Mont-Royal
Tucked into Mile End, this is the kind of hole-in-the-wall that might stop you in your tracks once you spot it (see: the limeade exterior, hot-pink steps, and a line that wraps around the block). Homemade soft-serve and sorbet are the things to order here, and what they're really known for are their inventive flavors, like coconut-mango and rose-raspberry, which change regularly. Note: The line moves swiftly, so don't be deterred—and it's cash only.
St-Viateur Bagel
263 Rue St-Viateur W., Plateau Mont-Royal
The bagel scene in Montreal comes down to allegiance, so those who swear by St-Viateur wouldn't go to, say, Fairmount, down the block. A bit of background: The folks at St-Viatuer set up shop in 1957 and have been churning out handmade bagels the same way ever since. Here, bagels are hand-rolled, boiled in honey water, and then cooked in a wood-fired oven that both cooks and flavors the bagel. Their assortment checks all the boxes, no matter what flavor profile you're after: rosemary and sea salt, flax, poppy seed, and, of course, sesame. St-Viateur has locations dotted throughout the city, but the one on Rue St-Viateur Ouest is the OG.
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