Travel

Argentina

Establishment neighborhood
DUBIÉ
República de la India 3139, Palermo
With a résumé that includes stints at Nicholas Kirkwood and Roksanda in London, native Argentinian Agustina Dubié wanted to start her label on home ground; the resulting boutique is now right beside the verdant botanical gardens. Dubié makes the kind of clothing you want to live in—soft yet structured leather jackets, slouchy tees, loose shirtdresses, and voluminous pants in an easy-to-pair, monochromatic palette. And while the clothes are beautiful, we love the shoes, too, (comfy slides, patent flats, and square-toed ankle boots).
Hub Porteño
Rodríguez Peña 1967, Recoleta
A converted townhouse with a mere eleven rooms, Hub Porteño is one of the newer kids on the block, having opened its doors in 2013. The rooftop space is a slice of Latin bohemia with vibrant upholstered sofas, candles, sculptural wooden furniture, and a garden. The concierge are experts in curating special experiences whether it be a cooking class or a polo excursion. The 600 thread-count sheets, spacious rooms, and marble swathed bathrooms (each one with a beautiful antique dressing table) are perfect spaces to retreat from the city chaos and recharge. With a small gym and sauna in the basement, Hub Porteño is a snug, cozy experience that feels more akin to staying in someone’s tastefully-appointed home than a hotel.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
Av. Santa Fe 1860, Recoleta
Buenos Aires is typically known for its tango and steak, but the written word is also a big deal around here with a bookstore on practically every corner. El Ateneo is not your run-of-the-mill bookseller: housed in a former grand theater built in 1919, this imposing, cavernous space is now packed floor-to-ceiling with books set amidst the original ornate fixtures. A particularly thoughtful detail is the in-store café, built onto what was once the tango stage, and still framed by dramatic red velvet drapes. Spend a few hours taking it all in and wrap up with a strong cortado center stage.
Fierro Hotel
Soler 5862, Palermo
The Fierro is located in the quieter, more residential area of Palermo known as Hollywood. An intimate, boutique option, this hotel may be small but it has all the expected amenities—including a rooftop pool and sauna. Rooms are modern and tastefully appointed with writing desks, super soft sheets, and rain showers. The on-site restaurant Uco is much-loved by locals and visitors alike serving up farm-to-fork food and a full Irish breakfast in the mornings (thanks to influence of Irish chef Ed Kerrigan). A hidden gem behind the property is the garden, a verdant space that feels like the tropics—it's a great spot to sit with a post-dinner drink under the twinkling lights strung between the trees. The Fierro is not the over-the-top option but it’s comfortable, practical, and has its own charm.
Alvear Palace Hotel
Avda. Alvear 1891, Recoleta
The Alvear Palace was, in its last life, an apartment block home to rich beef magnate families. Nowadays the 197 rooms still exude the grandeur and class of its past: Accommodations are bright, high-ceilinged, and smartly furnished with fine art and antiques, while the marble bathrooms are stocked with Hermès toiletries. The hotel features five restaurants, each one slightly different, but you can't go wrong. The rooftop bar with its panoramic views of the city is so atmospheric, illuminated by candles and twinkling lights. L’ Orangerie Bar is incredibly ornate, and one of the more beautiful spots in this city for a classic afternoon tea with all the bells and whistles (including monogrammed teacups). Aside from the overall grandeur, practicalities abound and the concierge are renowned for being able to accommodate any and every request, including snagging those much sought after last-minute tickets to polo.
Algodon Mansion
Montevideo 1647, Recoleta
The Algodon is Buenos Aires’s only Relais & Chateaux hotel, and with a second location in the heart of wine country, much of the food comes in fresh from Mendoza’s farmlands daily. A former private residence dating back to 1912, the mansion has a distinctly European aesthetic with parquet floors, modern furniture, and ornate flourishes. Ten suites strong, staying at the Algodon feels cozy, intimate, and quiet. All of the suites feature soaring ceilings, high thread count sheets, and beautifully outfitted marble bathrooms with steam showers. The larger suites however come with their own small wine bars stocked with Argentinian labels and conveniently have separate lounge areas, ideal for in-room entertaining. The hotel also has an in-house spa, a rooftop pool, and an individual butler to assist each guests throughout their stay.
Enseres
El Salvador 5986, Palermo
Partners in business and in life, Miguel Esmoris and Cecilia Miranda (one a food photographer, the other a fashion photographer), fused their marriage with their passion for beautiful things and opened Enseres (which translates, appropriately, to 'equipment'), the most beautiful, impeccably curated kitchen and homewares store. Stacked on rustic timber shelves are all manner of stemware, ceramics, cutlery, and appliances. So much thought has been poured into this place, right down to the packaging: each purchase comes lovingly wrapped in craft paper and twine, with a thoughtful little recipe card attached.
Teatro Colón
Cerrito 628, Microcentro
Without question, Teatro Colón is one of the world’s most breathtaking opera houses, and has played host to all of the greats across ballet, classical music, and opera from Maria Callas to Margot Fonteyn. Whilst the building itself has gone through many incarnations amidst plenty of turmoil (an anarchist bombing in 1910, the murder of one of its architects), the latest refurbishment was completed in 2010. Architecturally, the Teatro is eclectic in style which reflects the structure's journey through the last century—the horseshoe-shaped hall (which creates an echo chamber-like sound effect), holds nearly 4,000 people and feels grand and celebratory with plenty of velvet, tapestries, and ornately carved wood. Take a tour—which includes the deep catacombs beneath the building—or dress up and attend a performance to take in the old-world grandeur and hear the incredible acoustics for yourself.
San Telmo Market
Calle Defensa, San Telmo
This market has served locals since 1897, when it was originally founded as a marketplace for the waves of European immigrants who flocked to the city during that period. Set indoors, take a moment to look up and note the original fixtures, columns, and beams that still adorn the space today. Most of the stalls—selling all manner of knick-knacks, antiques, records, and crafts—are open daily. A separate Sunday flea market happens every weekend in this same quaint plaza, oftentimes with live tango as an accompaniment. Stop by the charming Bar Plaza Dorrego for a post-flea pick-me-up.
Ruth Benzacar Galería de Arte
Juan Ramírez de Velasco 1287, Villa Crespo
One of Buenos Aires's longest-standing art institutions, Ruth Benzacar was founded by Ruth herself in 1965, when in the midst of a financial crisis the matriarch transformed her then-home into a gallery space to the showcase the contemporary art collection she and her husband had amassed. These days the gallery has moved space, but continues to be a family affair, now run by Benzacar’s daughters Orly and Solana. Aside from frequent exhibits showcasing mostly contemporary Argentinian talent, the space also hosts other cultural activities like poetry readings and workshops for kids.