The Paris Art & Architecture Guide
No other city has Paris’s cultural credibility or stores of art: Whether it’s the Louvre, the Pompidou, or its literary legacy, Paris is one of those cities that’s been pace-setting for centuries.
Hotel Particulier Restaurant & BarPavillon D, 23 Avenue Junot, 8th | +126.96.36.199.81.40
The Hotel Particulier’s restaurant and bar (both open to the public) are designed to offer a respite from the craziness of the city. The food (a love letter to classic French cuisine) and the seasonal cocktails (the absinthe-spiked Montmartre julep is dangerously delicious) can easily stand on their own but, when enjoyed within the confines of the property’s hidden gardens, turn into an experience. The gardens also provide the kitchen with fresh ingredients, including honey from the beehives and eggs from the henhouse. The weekend brunch is legendary.
Le Fumoir6 Rue de l'Amiral de Coligny, 1st | +188.8.131.52.00.24
With the style of a ’40s British lounge, this is the perfect respite after a morning haul through the Louvre. They have a great value prix-fixe menu, but we usually come for a snack, savored over an international paper on one of the library room’s overstuffed leather couches. Creaky wooden floors, a constant stream of jazz, and a well-heeled clientele make any pitstop here feel like a dignified affair.
Chez Janou2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 3rd | +184.108.40.206.28.41
Popular with locals and staff from the nearby galleries, this lively and unpretentious Provençal-centric restaurant offers a set lunch menu that’s a total steal: €14.50 nets you either a main and an appetizer or a main and a dessert. If you opt for the latter, they make the most memorable and dangerously delectable chocolate mousse—which just so happens to be all-you-can-eat.
Ferdi32 Rue du Mont Thabor, 1st | +220.127.116.11.82.52
Named for their son, Ferdinand, owners Alicia and Jacques Fontanier decorated this tiny spot with artifacts and ephemera from his childhood. It’s a nice touch, as is the cheeseburger, which is known as one of Paris’s best. This spot is particularly big with a fashion crowd.
Restaurant Petrelle34 Rue Petrelle, 9th | +18.104.22.168.11.02
The bric-à-brac décor here is pretty irresistible (a random antler shed here, some antique Chinese hats there), and it’s also the perfect backdrop for one of our favorite, out-of-the-way date night spots in Paris. The homestyle French cooking is as exuberant as the surroundings—and it’s topped off with excellent meringues.
Caviar Kaspia17 Place de la Madeleine, 8th | +22.214.171.124.33.32
Since the 1920’s, Caviar Kaspia has been offering a luxurious, old-world Russian experience—with a beautiful view of the Eglise de la Madeleine. Plush, and paneled in wood, there aren’t many surprises in the dining room: You’ll find top-shelf caviar, blinis, champagne, and loads of vodka. The shop in the cellar sells everything from Iranian caviar to silver tableware to smoked fish.
Ma Cocotte106 Rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen | +126.96.36.199.70.00
At 250 seats, this bustling, Phillipe Starck-designed restaurant has an industrial loft feel, which is actually a nice, modern antidote to the antique vendors in the surrounding flea. The food is feel-good French (ratatouille, green bean salad, steak frites), which is exactly what you want after a long morning of treasure-hunting at the Les Puces.
Les Vins de Bellechasse20 Rue de Bellechasse, 7th | +33.1.47.05.11.11
In Paris, charming little eateries are a dime a dozen, but this bistro is a true standout. Located just steps from the Musée d’Orsay on the left bank, it serves reasonably priced French fare (duck breast, eggplant, tarte tatin), excellent wine, all against a backdrop of a lipstick-red banquette and a caricature wall. This is a neighborhood spot that gets pretty packed with locals in the evenings, so don’t expect to run into too many tourists.
La Perle78 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd | +188.8.131.52.69.93
On summer nights, the crowds here spill out onto the streets; when winter’s chill descends, it’s one of the cozier spots in the Marais.
Davé12 Rue de Richelieu, 1st | +184.108.40.206.49.48
Davé—named after its proprietor who to this day can be found greeting guests at the door—first took up residence on Rue de Richelieu in 1982. Since then, it’s become a favorite among actors, musicians, fashion types, and pretty much anyone who is anyone looking for some privacy and good Chinese food (some of the best in Paris, actually), which you have to order blind since there’s no menu. The decor is all red lacquered walls and photos of Davé with his big-name clients. It’s also one of the few establishment that still allows smoking indoors.