The Paris Hipster Guide
From the Marais to the 11th, Paris is packed with boutiques and restaurants that define what’s cool now. Here, many of Paris’s more envelope-pushing spots (and a lot of the health food joints, too, a concept that’s finally reached France).
Rosa BonheurParc des Buttes Chaumont, 2 Allée de la Cascade, 19th | +33.1.42.00.00.45
This spot is named for the nineteenth-century painter Rosa Bonheur, the first woman to become an officer of the Legion of Honour, whose paintings of horses and cows grace the walls of the Louvre and New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Bonheur used the then-wilds of the Bois de Boulogne to find animals to paint, this Rosa Bonheur is situated in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful garden in the 19th. The emphasis here is on day-drinking, really, though it gets overly packed as the night wears on. It serves great appetizers, plus it's laid-back, unpretentious, and kid-friendly. Should you stay past 10 p.m., expect to follow the crowd onto the dance floor.
Le Verre Volé67 Rue de Lancry, 10th | +33.1.48.03.17.34
Part wine shop, part bistro, Le Verre Volé draws a reliably large crowd despite its tiny footprint (you'll want to make a reservation unless you're just stopping in to pick up a bottle). There's a wine shop in the 11th (38 rue Oberkampf) as well as a sandwich shop (54 rue de la Folie Méricourt).
Au Passage1 Bis Passage St. Sébastien, 11th | +22.214.171.124.07.52
This one-room wine bar requires a walk down a very long (and at night, scarily dark) passage, but the music, lively crowd, and simple but solid menu of French small plates justify the gauntlet. While Aux Deux Amis down the street may tempt with a similar wine bar concept, it gets way too packed: Au Passage, which also feels a bit more grown-up, easily wins out.
Le Baron Rouge1 Rue Théophile Roussel, 12th | +126.96.36.199.14.32
While it's not required, locals bring their own glass bottles and fill them with wine from the barrels near the door. This is not a place for picky oenophiles as the wine here is more the "house" variety, but it's still a great place to put back a few glasses with some small plates.
Candelaria52 Rue de Saintonge, 3rd | +188.8.131.52.41.28
This is Paris's version of La Esquina, complete with a doorman to hold back the crowds. Up front, you'll find a teeny-tiny tacqueria, with fresh tortillas and a roster of toppings, whipped up under the watchful eye of the Mexico City–born chef. There's a hidden door in the back that opens into a cozy bar, which offers some of the more inventive (and delicious) tequila cocktails in the city.
Experimental Cocktail Club37 Rue Saint-Sauveur, 2nd | +33.1.45.08.88.09
In true speakeasy fashion, this very-adored spot is behind an unmarked door, on a dimly lit, pedestrian-only alley. But beyond the appeal of being impossible-to-find, Parisians really come because they love the artful cocktails. It gets crowded after 11 and is generally packed on weekends; there are now outposts in New York City and London as well.
Hoxton Hotel Bar30-32 rue du Sentier, 2ème | +184.108.40.206.75.00
Rivié, one of the two bars in the Hoxton, has a wonderful brasserie, a lovely outdoor garden, and scattered here and there, relaxing little nooks with armchairs and nice lighting. But never mind-skip all that. Head straight for the bar. The bar bar. Settle into the velvet barstool, order a glass of Billecart-Salmon (a rosé champagne) or, depending on your day, a dirty martini. The staff is friendly, the vibe is chill, and as evening slips into night, remember only two very important words: truffle fries.