The New Orleans Guide
The first thing that hits you when you arrive in New Orleans is that it feels unlike anywhere else in the country (or the world, for that matter). No other city has the same fascinating sense of time and place—and no other city can lay claim to introducing the world to Creole cooking, jazz, and of course, Mardi Gras. In the fourteen years since Hurricane Katrina devastated the region, New Orleans has flourished. We recently paid a visit to check out the city’s newest, greatest restaurants, hotels, and bars—plus a few classics we missed the first few times around.
Pied Nu5521 Magazine St., Uptown | 504.899.4118
This is one of those shops that manages to embody an entire aesthetic sensibility: It feels like a glamorous, French-tinged beach house where everything is perfectly effortless, and, well, perfect. And like a beach house, there's kind of something for everyone, whether it's a pair of Anthony Nak or Irene Neuwirth earrings, a summery dress from Matta or Megan Park, or a green lacquer tray. There's also an impressive apothecary, packed with Cire Trudon candles and Diptyque eau de toilettes.
Billy Reid3927 Magazine St., Uptown | 504.208.1200
Sure, Billy Reid is quickly carpeting the country with really, really well-done boutiques, but Reid is actually a Louisiana boy. He grew up in the tiny town of Amite, where is mother operated a women's clothing boutique. While Billy Reid got its start as a menswear brand, they're now doing women's as well, which has the same American sportswear sensibility. Tasseled loafers, patterned shorts, and leather dresses round out the mix.
Weinstein4011 Magazine St., Uptown | 504.895.6278
It's funny, but when Weinstein's opened back in the '70s, it was expressly devoted to menswear—these days, it's known for dressing the fairer sex, and in forward-thinking lines, too. You'll find many labels exclusive to the store, including Dries van Noten, Rick Owens, and Sacai.
Dop Antiques & Architecturals300 Jefferson Hwy, Bldg. 1, Jefferson | 504.373.5132
If you're in the mood for a good—albeit dusty—dig, and might be in the market for salvaged stained glass doors or a set of French bar stools, this warehouse will be your jam. It's vast, but the prices are fair and they receive shipments all the time, meaning it's a get-it-before-it's-gone scenario.
Keil’s Antiques325 Royal St., French Quarter | 504.522.4552
Keil’s Antiques has been holding court in New Orleans since the late 1800s: In fact, it's operated by the fourth generation of Keil's. The emphasis here is on pieces from the 17th, 18th, and 19th century, which might be a giant armoire, or a delicate piece of estate jewelry. The Keil family also runs Moss Antiques (411 Royal St.) and Royal Antiques (309 Royal St.).
Nadine Blake1036 Royal St., French Quarter | 504.529.4913
This cute little boutique is packed with stationery (including goop friend Alexa Pulitzer's line), coffee table books, and other great giftables. Blake does a great job of sourcing pieces from New Orleans locals, which she deftly mixes with more well-known brands.
Victoria’s4858 Magazine St., Uptown | 504.265.8010
Situated in a cheery yellow townhouse—and dotted with mid-century modern furniture—shopping at Victoria's feels like a trip through a good friend's closet. The edit is specific and spare, with pieces from Gary Graham, Dusica Dusica, and Autumn Cashmere lining the racks.
Lucullus610 Chartres St., French Quarter | 504.528.9620
It's not surprising that this would make our hearts beat a little faster, as the emphasis is on culinary antiques, which might show up in the form of silver wine timbales from France or café au lait bowls from the early 1900s. The price tags match the quality, the specificity, and the location (Lucullus lives in a 19th century building on Chartres Street).
Faulkner House Books624 Pirate's Alley, French Quarter | 504.524.2940
Occupying the former home of William Faulkner, this eponymous shop is one of the more special bookstores in the world. You'll find plenty of great reads (from Faulkner and others), along with collectibles and rare editions.
Leontine Linens3806 Magazine St., Uptown | 504.899.7833
In 1996 Jane Scott Hodges founded Leontine Linens, and in 2002, she picked up the mantle established by Eleanor Beard, who built a legendary needlepoint and embroidery business in the 20th century thanks to an army of wonderfully skilled artisans. Post-acquisition you can find the same level of service at Leontine: Cut and sewn to order duvets, sheeting, toweling, and table linens which are then hand-embroidered and appliqued. It's really beautiful stuff, turned out by some of the best needleworkers in the country. (The baby goods are instant-heirlooms and perfect gifts.)
Modern Market3138c Magazine St., Garden District | 504.896.2206
This bright and airy home goods shop specializes in modern furniture lines (Blu Dot, GUS Modern) and a smattering of accessories, which all have the makings of a perfect housewarming gift. There are architectural brass trays, geometric throw pillows from Ferm living, and bright bamboo serving spoons.
Marion Cage3719 Magazine St., Uptown | 504.891.8848
Architect and New Orleans resident Marion Cage McCollam started making jewelry more than a decade ago, and has quietly built up a following. It makes sense, because her whisper thin rings and quietly gorgeous studs cast in the shape of talons stand-out in a city known for its devotion to all things ornate. She also does really beautiful and streamlined hardware, including knob pulls and hooks.
Hové Parfumeur434 Chartres St., French Quarter | 504.525.7827
Back in 1931, Mrs. Alvin Hovey-King set up shop on Royal Street, where she sold perfumes, a trade passed down by her French Creole mother. The tradition continues to this day, and although the shop has relocated a handful of times, the same sensibility prevails. Most of the scents—in colognes, perfumes, bath salts, and lotions—are gloriously old-fashioned and Southern-specific, like Creole Days, corduroy, vetivert, and heliotrope.
Krewe du Optic809 Royal St., French Quarter | 504.407.2925
Krewe founder Stirling Barrett knows how to create an experience. Krewe is fundamentally a sunglasses store, but it’s also a hidden spot to have a coffee and just hang out. Like the city behind the brand, these frames are unusual, sometimes quirky, and beautifully crafted. Set aside time to visit Barrett’s plant-filled, showroom-style store and you won’t be able to leave without indulging in a pair of these special frames. Slow burners, indecisive shoppers, and general passersby can take a seat in the sunny, brick-walled alley outside for a coffee break.
Century Girl Vintage2023 Magazine St., Garden District | 504.875.3105
Rare, pricey-but-worth-it vintage is what comes to mind when we think of Century Girl. Jewelry from the eighteenth century, exquisite cocktail attire, and precious trinkets fill the store. It can get expensive in here, but the cost reflects the quality and careful curation behind each piece. There are no duds here.
Saint Claude Social Club1933 Sophie Wright Pl., Garden District | 504.218.8987
Saint Claude Social Club is really code for what the owners describe as a “women’s parlor.” The store is an Aladdin’s cave of fragrance, exquisite costume jewelry, and vintage clothing. At night, the space often becomes a gathering place or “parlor” for the women of New Orleans, with trunk shows, art exhibits, and other creative events very much in line with the exuberant nature of the city.
Crowe Jewelry3903 Magazine St., Touro | 504.507.0628
Crowe founder Lauren Bott started as a costume designer and buyer for film and television. Now she makes her own goods. Bott’s jewelry is delicate and sculptural and often harnesses precious stones. We especially love the earrings, which are discreet enough for everyday wear but rendered in gold and special enough for a night out. If you want to treat yourself to something unique or mark an occasion with something beautiful, make a beeline for Crowe.
Pilot and Powell3901 Magazine St., Touro | 504.827.1727
Pilot and Powell’s careful edit includes elevated basics from Rachel Comey, Marni, Ganni, and Rejina Pyo. The modern white space has all the hallmarks of a great shopping experience: spacious fitting rooms, cleverly merchandised racks, and the most gorgeous selection of jewelry and accessories carefully placed on wooden dressers and trunks scattered around the store.