Face Oil First or Moisturizer? Top Dermatologists on How to Layer
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Updated on: April 2, 2024

The short answer: It’s kind of up to you. Many dermatologists advise starting with the thinnest-consistency formula and layering thicker ones on top, but this isn’t always the best strategy. “If it’s a more water-based moisturizer, apply it before oil,” says Robert Anolik, MD, an NYC dermatologist and professor of dermatology at NYU Grossman School of Medicine. What to apply when also depends on your skin and how much moisture you’re looking for, explains NYC dermatologist Elyse Love, MD: “Face oils don’t really add hydration to the skin, but they can help support the skin barrier and lock in the hydration that you’d get from a serum or moisturizer.”
“Face oils feel thin consistency-wise,” says Anolik. “But they should still be applied after water-based products like lotions.” Love agrees: “Face oils are occlusive, helping lock in the good stuff (hydration) and lock out the bad (irritants and pollutants), all of which helps support the skin barrier.” While face oils and balms (essentially thicker, more-occlusive versions of face oil) can penetrate many moisturizers, serums, and creams, few of those treatments can penetrate an oil or balm. Keep that in mind as you layer. And note that while thicker emulsions like creams can often be too much for oily skin, oils—even rich ones—are different. In fact, certain oils, like rose hip and jojoba, can help combat excess oil in acne-prone skin.
If you’re dry, definitely layer both. “Often moisturizers are some type of emulsion,” says Anolik. So creams can contain skin-barrier-supporting ingredients like linoleic acid or squalane (just as oils can) but also typically include water-based hydrating ingredients like glycerin or hyaluronic acid. An oil over the top delivers extra nourishment and seals in moisture at the same time. But if the cream you’re using is super occlusive, you might want to layer it over the oil.
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Cream
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Oil
What about lotions and serums? “Lotions and serums have more water and less oil than creams, so they feel lighter on skin and absorb more easily,” says Anolik. “Creams tend to contain less water and more oil.” So if you plan to layer a serum with a cream, start with the serum.
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Serum
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Lotion
BEST FACE OIL AND MOISTURIZER COMBINATIONS BY SKIN TYPE
SKIN TYPE: DRY
If you regularly battle dryness, layering a rich, thick moisturizing cream under or over a face oil or balm can make a noticeable difference.
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Balm
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Oil
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Thickest Cream
SKIN TYPE: OILY OR ACNE-PRONE
“Most people with acne-prone skin do better with relatively lighter creams or lotions,” says Anolik. Again, the right oil, even on its own, can help, too. And hyaluronic acid delivers hydration without any oil at all.
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Featherweight Moisturizer
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Hyaluronic Acid
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Treatment Oil
SKIN TYPE: SENSITIVE
Those with sensitive or reactive skin benefit from calming extracts and formulas free of fragrance and other common irritants. Oils like primrose and green tea can help soothe.
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Made without Common Skin Irritants
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Made with Evening Primrose
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Made with Green Tea Oil
THE 4 P.M. MAKEUP-REFRESH TRICK
Pat on face oil over your makeup to give your skin an instant pick-me-up (smooth a few drops between your palms, then pat onto your skin lightly, avoiding eye shadow and mascara). This trick is especially great in the late-afternoon doldrums, when you’re thinking you might need a little extra makeup—a little oil is actually all you need.
AN EASY GUIDE TO SKIN-CARE ORDER
LAYER 1
Flood skin with active ingredients in a light serum.
LAYER 2
Moisturize (and add more actives).
LAYER 3
Pat on oil for more moisture and actives.
LAYER 4
Mineral sunscreen for clean sun protection.