Face Oil First or Moisturizer? Top Dermatologists on How to Layer
The short answer: It’s kind of up to you. Many dermatologists advise starting with the thinnest-consistency formula and layering thicker ones on top, but this isn’t always the best strategy. “If it’s a more water-based moisturizer, apply it before oil,” says Robert Anolik, MD, an NYC dermatologist and professor of dermatology at NYU Grossman School of Medicine. What to apply when also depends on your skin and how much moisture you’re looking for, explains NYC dermatologist Elyse Love, MD: “Face oils don’t really add hydration to the skin, but they can help support the skin barrier and lock in the hydration that you’d get from a serum or moisturizer.”
If you’re really dry, definitely layer both. “Often moisturizers are some type of emulsion,” says Anolik. So moisturizer can contain skin-barrier-supporting ingredients like linoleic acid or squalane (just as oils can) but also typically includes water-based hydrating ingredients like glycerin or hyaluronic acid. An oil over the top delivers more nourishment and seals in moisture at the same time.
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Cream
goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Nourishing Face Cream goop, $98/$86 with subscriptionSHOP NOW -
Oil
goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Super Nutrient Face Oil goop, $98/$89 with subscriptionSHOP NOW
What about lotions and serums? “Lotions and serums have more water and less oil than creams, so they feel lighter on skin and absorb more easily,” says Anolik. “Creams tend to contain less water and more oil.” So if you plan to layer a serum with a cream, start with serum.
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Serum
Tata Harper Superkind Bio-Barrier Serum goop, $146SHOP NOW -
Cream
Pangea Ultra Rich Nourishing Moisturizer goop, $54SHOP NOW -
Lotion
Plantkos Phyto A Face Lotion goop, $67SHOP NOW
“Face oils feel thin consistency-wise,” says Anolik. “But they should still be applied after water-based products like lotions.” Love agrees: “Face oils are occlusive, helping lock in the good stuff (hydration) and lock out the bad (irritants and pollutants), all of which helps support the skin barrier.” While face oils can penetrate many moisturizers, serums, and creams, few of those treatments can penetrate an oil, so keep that in mind as you layer. And note that while thicker emulsions like creams can often be too much for oily skin, oils—even rich ones—are different. In fact, certain oils, like rose hip and jojoba, can help combat excess oil in acne-prone skin.
Favorite Face Oil and Moisturizer Combinations by Skin Type
Skin Type: Dry
If you regularly battle dryness, layering a rich, thick cream moisturizer under a face oil can make a noticeable difference.
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Balm
Monastery Made Attar Floral Concentrate Balm goop, $168SHOP NOW -
Supercharged Oil for Moisture and Treatment
FāTH The Mage Oil goop, $160SHOP NOW -
Thickest Cream
Surya Balancing Collagen Cream goop, $195SHOP NOW
Skin Type: Oily or Acne-Prone
“Most people with acne-prone skin do better with relatively lighter creams or lotions,” says Anolik. Again, the right oil, even on its own, can help, too.
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Featherweight Moisturizer
goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Glow Lotion goop, $58/$52 with subscriptionSHOP NOW -
Hyaluronic Acid
Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum goop, $320SHOP NOW -
Soothing Treatment Oil
Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum goop, $195SHOP NOW
Skin Type: Sensitive
Those with sensitive or reactive skin benefit from calming extracts and formulas free of fragrance and other common irritants. Oils like primrose and green tea can soothe sensitive skin types.
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Made without More than 85 Common Skin Allergens and Irritants
Tata Harper Fortifying Moisturizer goop, $130SHOP NOW -
Skin-Coddling Cream Made with Evening Primrose
Augustinus Bader The Ultimate Soothing Cream goop, $280SHOP NOW -
Made with Green Tea Oil
True Botanicals Renew Pure Radiance Oil goop, $110SHOP NOW
The 4 p.m. Makeup Refresh Trick
Pat on face oil over your makeup to give your skin an instant pick-me-up (smooth a few drops between your palms, then pat onto your skin lightly, avoiding eye shadow and mascara). This trick is especially great in the late-afternoon-doldrums time, when you’re thinking you might need a little extra makeup—a little oil is actually all you need.
An Easy Guide to Skin-Care Order
LAYER 1: Exfoliate for fresh, clean skin.
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Daily
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Twice a Week
Humanrace Lotus Enzyme Exfoliator goop, $46SHOP NOW -
Once a Week
goop Beauty GOOPGLOW 15% Glycolic Acid Overnight Glow Peel goop, $125/$112 with subscriptionSHOP NOW -
LAYER 2: Tone to retexturize, brighten, and smooth.
goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Flower Acids Resurfacing Toner goop, $45/$40 with subscriptionSHOP NOW -
LAYER 3: Flood skin with actives.
Alpyn Beauty Bearberry & Vitamin C Glow Serum goop, $59SHOP NOW -
LAYER 4 (if needed): Moisturize (and add more actives).
goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Nourishing Face Cream goop, $98/$86 with subscriptionSHOP NOW
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LAYER 5 (if needed): Pat on oil for more moisture and actives.
goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Super Nutrient Face Oil goop, $98/$89 with subscriptionSHOP NOW -
LAYER 6: Mineral sunscreen for clean sun protection.
Grown Alchemist Natural Hydrating Sunscreen SPF 30 goop, $39SHOP NOW
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How do we test clean beauty products at goop? First they have to pass our standards for clean (goop has some of the toughest standards in the industry). Only then do they make it to our editors’ showers, bathroom counters, and makeup bags, where they are rigorously hand tested (and road tested, if we happen to be going on a trip). The goop beauty department is made up of women of varied ages, races, and tastes—if we really love something, we’re pretty confident you’re going to love it, too.
