Beauty

Face Oil First or Moisturizer? Top Dermatologists on How to Layer

Written by: Brianna Peters

|

Published on: November 10, 2022

woman using beauty product

The short answer: It’s kind of up to you. Many dermatologists advise starting with the thinnest-consistency formula and layering thicker ones on top, but this isn’t always the best strategy. “If it’s a more water-based moisturizer, apply it before oil,” says Robert Anolik, MD, an NYC dermatologist and professor of dermatology at NYU Grossman School of Medicine. What to apply when also depends on your skin and how much moisture you’re looking for, explains NYC dermatologist Elyse Love, MD: “Face oils don’t really add hydration to the skin, but they can help support the skin barrier and lock in the hydration that you’d get from a serum or moisturizer.”

If you’re really dry, definitely layer both. “Often moisturizers are some type of emulsion,” says Anolik. So moisturizer can contain skin-barrier-supporting ingredients like linoleic acid or squalane (just as oils can) but also typically includes water-based hydrating ingredients like glycerin or hyaluronic acid. An oil over the top delivers more nourishment and seals in moisture at the same time.

  1. Cream

    goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Nourishing Face Cream
    goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Nourishing Face Cream goop, $98/$86 with subscription
    SHOP NOW
  2. Oil

    goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Super Nutrient Face Oil
    goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Super Nutrient Face Oil goop, $98/$89 with subscription
    SHOP NOW

What about lotions and face serums? “Lotions and serums have more water and less oil than creams, so they feel lighter on skin and absorb more easily,” says Anolik. “Creams tend to contain less water and more oil.” So if you plan to layer a serum with a cream, start with serum.

  1. Serum

    Tata Harper Superkind Bio-Barrier Serum
    Tata Harper Superkind Bio-Barrier Serum goop, $146
    SHOP NOW
  2. Cream

    Pangea Ultra Rich Nourishing Moisturizer
    Pangea Ultra Rich Nourishing Moisturizer goop, $54
    SHOP NOW
  3. Lotion

    Planktos Phyto A Face Lotion
    Plantkos Phyto A Face Lotion goop, $67
    SHOP NOW

“Face oils feel thin consistency-wise,” says Anolik. “But they should still be applied after water-based products like lotions.” Love agrees: “Face oils are occlusive, helping lock in the good stuff (hydration) and lock out the bad (irritants and pollutants), all of which helps support the skin barrier.” While face oils can penetrate many moisturizers, serums, and creams, few of those treatments can penetrate an oil, so keep that in mind as you layer. And note that while thicker emulsions like creams can often be too much for oily skin, oils—even rich ones—are different. In fact, certain oils, like rose hip and jojoba, can help combat excess oil in acne-prone skin.

  1. Rose Hip Oil

    Balmyard Beauty Moonlight Lover Facial Oil
    Balmyard Beauty Moonlight Lover Facial Oil goop, $95
    SHOP NOW
  2. Jojoba Oil

    Tata Harper Retinoic Nutrient Face Oil
    Tata Harper Retinoic Nutrient Face Oil goop, $165
    SHOP NOW
  3. Plum Oil

    Le Prunier Plum Beauty Oil
    Le Prunier Plum Beauty Oil goop, $72
    SHOP NOW

Favorite Face Oil and Moisturizer Combinations by Skin Type

Skin Type: Dry

If you regularly battle dryness, layering a rich, thick cream moisturizer under a face oil can make a noticeable difference.

  1. Balm

    Monastery Made Attar Floral Concentrate Balm
    Monastery Made Attar Floral Concentrate Balm goop, $168
    SHOP NOW
  2. Supercharged Oil for Moisture and Treatment

    FaTH The Mage Oil
    FāTH The Mage Oil goop, $160
    SHOP NOW
  3. Thickest Cream

    Surya Balancing Collagen Cream
    Surya Balancing Collagen Cream goop, $195
    SHOP NOW

Skin Type: Oily or Acne-Prone

“Most people with acne-prone skin do better with relatively lighter creams or lotions,” says Anolik. Again, the right oil, even on its own, can help, too.

  1. Featherweight Moisturizer

    goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Glow Lotion
    goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Glow Lotion goop, $58/$52 with subscription
    SHOP NOW
  2. Hyaluronic Acid

    Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum
    Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum goop, $320
    SHOP NOW
  3. Soothing Treatment Oil

    Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum
    Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum goop, $195
    SHOP NOW

Skin Type: Sensitive

Those with sensitive or reactive skin benefit from calming extracts and formulas free of fragrance and other common irritants. Oils like primrose and green tea can soothe sensitive skin types.

  1. Made without More than 85 Common Skin Allergens and Irritants

    Tata Harper Fortifying Moisturizer
    Tata Harper Fortifying Moisturizer goop, $130
    SHOP NOW
  2. Skin-Coddling Cream Made with Evening Primrose

    Augustinus Bader The Ultimate Soothing Cream
    Augustinus Bader The Ultimate Soothing Cream goop, $280
    SHOP NOW
  3. Made with Green Tea Oil

    True Botanicals Renew Pure Radiance Oil
    True Botanicals Renew Pure Radiance Oil goop, $110
    SHOP NOW

The 4 p.m. Makeup Refresh Trick

Pat on face oil over your makeup to give your skin an instant pick-me-up (smooth a few drops between your palms, then pat onto your skin lightly, avoiding eye shadow and mascara). This trick is especially great in the late-afternoon-doldrums time, when you’re thinking you might need a little extra makeup—a little oil is actually all you need.

  1. Furtuna Skin Due Alberi Biphase Moisturizing Oil
    Furtuna Skin Due Alberi Biphase Moisturizing Oil goop, $225
    SHOP NOW

An Easy Guide to Skin-Care Order

LAYER 1: Exfoliate for fresh, clean skin.

  1. Daily

    goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Cloudberry Exfoliating Jelly Cleanser
    goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Cloudberry Exfoliating Jelly Cleanser goop, $35/$25 with subscription
    SHOP NOW
  2. Twice a Week

    Humanrace Lotus Enzyme Exfoliator
    Humanrace Lotus Enzyme Exfoliator goop, $46
    SHOP NOW
  3. Once a Week

    goop Beauty GOOPGLOW 15% Glycolic Acid Overnight Glow Peel
    goop Beauty GOOPGLOW 15% Glycolic Acid Overnight Glow Peel goop, $125/$112 with subscription
    SHOP NOW
  4. LAYER 2: Tone to retexturize, brighten, and smooth.

    goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Flower Acids Resurfacing Toner
    goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Flower Acids Resurfacing Toner goop, $45/$40 with subscription
    SHOP NOW
  5. LAYER 3: Flood skin with actives.

    Alpyn Beauty Bearberry & Vitamin C Glow Serum
    Alpyn Beauty Bearberry & Vitamin C Glow Serum goop, $59
    SHOP NOW
  6. LAYER 4 (if needed): Moisturize (and add more actives).

    goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Nourishing Face Cream
    goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Nourishing Face Cream goop, $98/$86 with subscription
    SHOP NOW
  1. LAYER 5 (if needed): Pat on oil for more moisture and actives.

    goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Super Nutrient Face Oil
    goop Beauty GOOPGENES All-in-One Super Nutrient Face Oil goop, $98/$89 with subscription
    SHOP NOW
  2. LAYER 6: Mineral sunscreen for clean sun protection.

    Grown Alchemist Natural Hydrating Sunscreen SPF 30
    Grown Alchemist Natural Hydrating Sunscreen SPF 30 goop, $39
    SHOP NOW

Related Reading

Do Antioxidants Really Boost Glowing Skin?

A Clean Skin Routine for Morning and Night

What Does Serum Do for Skin?

How do we test clean beauty products at goop? First they have to pass our standards for clean (goop has some of the toughest standards in the industry). Only then do they make it to our editors’ showers, bathroom counters, and makeup bags, where they are rigorously hand tested (and road tested, if we happen to be going on a trip). The goop beauty department is made up of women of varied ages, races, and tastes—if we really love something, we’re pretty confident you’re going to love it, too.