2 Top Makeup Artists on Getting the Perfect Red Lip
A classic red lip will never go out of style thanks, in part, to its versatility. “A red lip instantly elevates and changes a look depending on the shade and technique you use,” says New York–based makeup artist and founder Fara Homidi. “You can look polished and confident in a deeper, sharp red lip; sultry and sexy in a glossy red lip; or fun and effortless with a diffused red lip.” Founder and makeup artist Gucci Westman agrees, adding that a red lip is the exception when it comes to bright colors. “Even if you’re not normally a person who goes for bright, vibrant colors, a red lip is bold but doesn’t feel too trendy or out-there,” she says.
Then there’s Red Lipstick Theory, which has been trending on social media: It posits that a red lip is so powerful and alluring, it makes your skin look instantly smoother, fresher, and brighter, even if you don’t have any other makeup on.
We asked Homidi and Westman to share their best tips and techniques for creating a chic red lip that really lasts.
1
Pick the Right Red
The best red for you is the one that makes you feel your best, but if you don’t know where to begin in choosing a shade, consider your skin’s undertones. “If you have warm or pink undertones (think, skin that flushes easily) try reds with orange undertones, like tomato, brick, or rust,” says Westman. “For those with cool undertones, reds with blue undertones—like berry, ruby, or cherry shades—look so pretty. If you have neutral undertones, you can play with different shades.”
Warm Undertones
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Orangey red
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Deep brick red
Cool Undertones
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Blue-red
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Pink-red
2
Exfoliate and Hydrate to Prep Your Lips
You wouldn’t put makeup on your face without moisturizing first, and the same rule applies when it comes to lips. Buff out any dryness or flakiness with a lip scrub. If you don’t have a lip polish on hand, Homidi likes to use a textured washcloth and warm water to gently exfoliate. “It makes my lips so soft and smooth,” she says.
Then follow it with a nourishing lip balm or lip mask to moisturize deeply. Just make sure you let it absorb for a few minutes before applying lip color; you might prep your lips, apply the lip mask, and let it sink in while you do the rest of your makeup. “If the balm is too slippery it can affect your lip color application, making it messy,” says Westman. (Speaking of lip treatments, watch this space for our new cushiony lip mask, launching in January—it nourishes, replenishes, and delivers deep, long-lasting moisture for pillowy-soft lips.)
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Exfoliate
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Hydrate
3
Shape and Define with a Pencil
Homidi starts by using a lip pencil—browns or reds pair nicely with a red lip—to define and contour the initial lip shape. “A pencil is so great for lining the lips because it’s precise and delivers clean, crisp lines,” she says. If you’re a lipstick beginner, Westman suggests using a neutral nude or pink lip liner. “It’s not super noticeable, so it’s easy to blend but still gives you the outline for your lips,” she says.
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Red
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Neutral nude
4
Apply with a Brush for a Crisp Line
For a clean edge and even color that starkly contrasts with skin, apply your lip color with a brush, layer by layer. “A high-quality lip brush gives you so much more control,” says Homidi. “It picks up the perfect amount of product and applies the precise amount of pressure. Plus the feathered brush tip blends the lip line with such ease.” Start from the center of the lips and work outward, dabbing on the color with a brush. With this technique, the majority of the pigment is placed at the center of the lips, leaving less on the brush so it’s easier to smooth along the lip line without smudging. “After I’m happy with the color, I use the liner I prepped with again over the lipstick to both lock in the color and perfect the shape,” Homidi says.
The other option is to press on the color with your fingers—this gives it a sexy, French-girl vibe, as if you’ve just been kissed or sipped a glass of red wine. “It’s a beautiful, more diffused look with a soft-focus effect,” says Westman.
5
Prevent Feathering with a Touch of Foundation
To lock in the color and prevent it from bleeding, Westman uses a detail brush to add a tiny bit of foundation around the edges of the lips. “It’s a great way to fix the shape and clean up little mistakes,” she says. Homidi likes to blur the edges of the lip with a bit of translucent powder. “It sets the lip so it doesn’t move around or bleed,” she says.
6
Smudgeproof Your Color and Add Finishing Touches
Matte, suedelike formulas traditionally have more staying power than sheer glosses or balmy, satin finishes but layering can change the way the red lip looks. “A gloss or balm over a matte color adds dimension and a juicy allover shine that’s so fun,” says Homidi. “Just pick a shade that’s neutral or in the red family to accentuate your lip color.”
