Beauty

How to Do the (Clean) Curly Girl Method

Written by: Megan O’Neill

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Published on: August 16, 2022

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Photo courtesy of Rachel Rebibo/The Licensing Project

Caring for curly hair (from waves to coils) once meant a daunting array of heat tools and innumerable products laden with harmful, harsh ingredients like formaldehyde, ammonia, sulfates, parabens, phthalates, and more, but the 2002 book Curly Girl: The Handbook helped change all that. Written by salon owner and hairstylist Lorraine Massey, it introduced a more holistic, minimalist approach—the Curly Girl Method—encouraging those with curly hair to celebrate “the world’s most graceful beauty accessory, the natural curl.” Various iterations of the method have since evolved, as people have tweaked and experimented to find what works best for them. The best news: The method is entirely (and delightfully) doable using clean products.

CLEANSE (BUT SKIP MOST OF THE SHAMPOO)

The Curly Girl Method often starts with a reset cleanse to get rid of buildup before ditching shampoo altogether (for the most part). This invigorating, mineral-rich scrub is made with big chunks of pink Himalayan salt that sweep away buildup (and give your scalp a fantastic in-shower massage), plus cold-pressed moringa and unfiltered rose hip oils for shine, softness, and bounce.

  1. Deep-cleanse and moisturize

    goop Beauty G.Tox Himalayan Salt Scalp Scrub Shampoo
    goop Beauty G.Tox Himalayan Salt Scalp Scrub Shampoo goop, $55/$38 with subscription
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CONDITION AND DETANGLE WHILE YOUR HAIR’S STILL WET

Curly hair tends to be drier than straight hair, which is why extra moisture is essential. Use a luscious, deeply hydrating conditioner in the shower and try not to rinse it completely out. Because curly hair is often delicate and prone to breakage, gently detangle it while it’s still wet and soaked in conditioner. Detangle with your fingertips or a wide-tooth comb in the shower, or use a leave-in after the shower. Note that most versions of the method discourage combing or brushing dry curls; wet is the time to comb or brush.

  1. In the Shower

    Rahua Hydration Conditioner
    Rahua Hydration Conditioner goop, $38
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  2. Post-shower

    Crown Affair The Leave-In Conditioner
    Crown Affair The Leave-In Conditioner goop, $48
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  3. Comb

    Crown Affair The Comb No. 002
    Crown Affair The Comb No. 002 goop, $38
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  4. Detangling Brush

    Manta Manta Pulse Hairbrush
    Manta Pulse Healthy Hair Brush Therapy goop, $69.95
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AIR-DRY IF YOU CAN

Use a microfiber towel or an old T-shirt to gently wrap wet curls; the agitating motion most of us have been taught to use increases frizz, so wrap and gently squeeze water from your hair instead. Air-drying incurs the least damage and frizz, but a hair-dryer with a diffuser attachment helps mitigate heat damage.

  1. Hair wrap

    Aquis Copper Sure Rapid Dry Hair Wrap
    Aquis Copper Sure Rapid Dry Hair Wrap goop, $21
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  2. Hair towel

    Crown Affair The Towel
    Crown Affair The Towel goop, $45
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  3. Dryer with diffuser

    GA.MA. Italy Professional IQ Perfetto Hair Dryer
    Ga.Ma. Italy Professional IQ Perfetto Hair Dryer goop, $399
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STYLE WITH TEXTURE

Since the Curly Girl Method is all about embracing your natural curl, major blowouts and straighteners are obviously unnecessary. Smooth frizz, define curl, and enhance texture with clean creams made with ingredients like shea butter, botanical extracts, and honey.

  1. Define curl

    Innersense Quiet Calm Curl Control
    Innersense Quiet Calm Curl Control goop, $26
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  2. Enhance texture with
    light hold

    Innersense Inner Peace Whipped Creme Texturizer
    Innersense Inner Peace Whipped Creme Texturizer goop, $22
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  3. Shine-boosting oil

    Kreyol Essence Haitian Black Castor Oil Light
    Kreyol Essence Haitian Black Castor Oil Light goop, $50
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  4. Frizz-obliterating cream

    Grown Alchemist Smoothing Hair Treatment
    Grown Alchemist Smoothing Hair Treatment goop, $49
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PRETREAT FOR EXTRA SHINE

Before you wash your hair, massage this ultrahydrating serum (Gwyneth describes it as a “miracle”) from the midlengths of your hair to the ends and leave it in for 20 minutes. Vitamin C, omega-rich sea buckthorn oil, and moisturizing plumeria monoi oil help prevent frizz, hydrate, and leave hair gloriously shiny and healthy-looking, with noticeably improved texture.

  1. goop Beauty GOOPGLOW Restore + Shine Hair Serum
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MASK AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK

If you love the results a face mask can deliver for your skin, definitely consider doing a regular hair mask. Massage a mask into wet hair and leave it in for 15 to 20 minutes; to amp up results even further, apply heat (you can use the sun, a diffuser, a sauna, a steam shower, or simply a warm towel as your heat source).

  1. Moisturize with hyaluronic
    acid and shea butter

    Dr. Barbara Sturm Repair Hair Mask
    Dr. Barbara Sturm Repair Hair Mask goop, $65
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  2. Restore with
    plant-based oils

    Augustinus Bader The Leave-In Hair Treatment
    Augustinus Bader The Leave-In Hair Treatment goop, $50
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  3. Hydrate with tsubaki-seed
    oil and yuzu extract

    Crown Affair The Renewal Mask
    Crown Affair The Renewal Mask goop, $58
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  4. Nourish with rahua
    and sunflower-seed oils

    Rahua Omega 9 Hair Mask
    Rahua Omega 9 Hair Mask goop, $44
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