Dry versus Wet Haircuts: Which Is Right for You?

How you have your hair cut can make a real difference in the way it looks and feels, not to mention how easy it is to style. And while there are many techniques for cutting hair—razor cutting, point cutting, calligraphy cutting, and more—the most common are dry and wet. Here, experts explain the difference between the two, plus the styles and hair types that work best with each.

What’s the Difference between a Dry and Wet Haircut?

It’s pretty straightforward—a stylist cuts your hair either while it’s dry or while it’s wet. While the majority of haircuts are done wet, it’s worth noting that they all have a dry element to them. “Touch-ups and finishing are always done while hair is dry,” says dry-cutting specialist Megan Robinson, founder of New York’s Pearlita salon. “It’s where you can really add softness and movement.”

“I tailor my cuts to fit my clients’ lifestyle,” says top LA hairstylist Garrett Markenson, who does both dry and wet cutting. (Markenson also founded one of our favorite clean hair-care brands, Reverie.) “Is their routine low-maintenance or high-maintenance? Do they come in once a month or only a few times a year? These details add up and help me determine what type of haircut realistically works best,” he says.

The Benefits of a Dry Cut

Best for: Wavy, curly, and kinky hair types; long hair; and damaged hair.

A dry cut is an individualized method that focuses on the flow and movement of your hair—and it can result in a truly one-of-a-kind cut. “It’s a sculptural, intuitive technique,” says Markenson. “Sometimes I don’t even use a comb with a dry cut—I use my free hand to feel the density and layers in the hair.”

Both Robinson and Markenson ask dry-cut clients to come to their appointment with their hair freshly washed and air-dried, with no product in it. “I want to see hair in its truest, most natural form,” says Robinson. “It helps me evaluate hair density, texture, and shape, and I’m able to see even the most subtle details—like if you have a stubborn cowlick or bends and waves.”

PREPARE FOR A DRY CUT WITH A GREAT WASH

One of the biggest advantages of a dry cut is that there are no surprises—great for anyone anxious about getting a haircut. “My clients can really see what’s happening,” says Robinson. “I cut based on their natural texture and how they style their hair.”

Dry cutting helps with shaping textured hair, whether you have a slight wave or tight-knit coils: “Wet cuts don’t necessarily account for how curls and coils actually lie when dry,” says Markenson. “Curl patterns are so unique and different for each person, and it’s easier to see the shape overall when the hair is dry.”

It’s also useful for those who want to keep length. When your hair is wet, it has more stretch and elasticity, and when it’s dry, it shrinks back up. “Clients have to visualize how short their hair will be when it’s cut wet,” says Robinson. “That’s not the case with a dry cut. You can see exactly how the hair is falling and what the length is—it takes the guesswork out.” (When I tried dry cutting with Robinson, I loved that I could see the length as it was being cut and learned that I have a very slight bend in my hair right at eye level. Robinson cut face-framing pieces specifically to accentuate that natural wave in my hair.)

If damage is an issue for you, a dry haircut allows stylists to see exactly where the damage is—whether it’s split ends or a bit of breakage hidden underneath from heat tools.

Another bonus? Dry haircuts air-dry like a dream, according to Robinson. “Because they’re cut to how your hair naturally is without any professional styling, you’ll have less difficulty styling it at home,” she says.

AIR-DRY ESSENTIALS

The Benefits of a Wet Cut

Best for: Bobs, blunt ends, razor-cut shags, and precision cuts.

Wet cutting is a more technical and traditional way of cutting hair that allows stylists to cut with ultrafine precision, so it’s best for tapered styles and uniform or sleek shapes. “We learn to cut hair wet in beauty school because wet hair is more manageable and easier to section,” says Robinson.

“I prefer to cut bobs and precision cuts—haircuts with clean lines or defined layers—wet,” says Markenson. Robinson agrees: “Really sharp lines—think a Vidal Sassoon–style bob on Greta Lee or all the polished shags that are popular right now—are a razor cut and best done wet.”

How to Prepare for Any Haircut

No matter what type of cut you want, research your stylist first. “Not every stylist specializes in dry cutting, and not every stylist can do a razor cut,” says Robinson. Book a consultation first instead of an appointment to get suggestions based on your reference photo, face shape, and texture.

Finishing Touches

After a dry cut, you can still get a wash, blowout, and style at the salon if you wish. “I always finish haircuts with a little dry shampoo at the roots,” says Robinson. “Using it before it’s needed keeps hair looking fresh for a few days.”

The better you treat your hair on an ongoing basis—with nourishing treatments, moisturizing masks, and smoothing oils—the more shine, volume, and fullness you maintain from cut to cut.