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Resurrecting Your Eyebrows

Full, well-shaped brows can make such a difference when it comes to looking healthy, natural and youthful. (Plus, well-shaped brows mean you can usually get away with wearing less makeup. True story.) Conversely, over-plucking or getting a bad wax can leave you with scrawny brows that bring out fine lines and dark circles. We sat down with brow guru Kristie Streicher, of Striiike in LA, on what to do when you’ve over-plucked, or have lost track of your ideal arch or shape.

Kristie (middle), feathering some brows.

Q

What’s the ideal brow shape? Is it different for different people? How can we achieve it?

A

The Feathered Brow technique I created looks great on every face. It is simply your own natural eyebrow shape with just a few carefully selected hairs removed. Women can achieve this look at home by first letting their eyebrows grow out for 3-4 months in order to see their natural shape and arch. Then only tweeze the few hairs it takes to open up the outer arch of the brow.

The perfect feathered brow.

Q

Any advice on creating the arch? How how far out should we pluck?

A

The biggest mistake women make is not finding their own natural arch. Often, the arch is placed too close to the inner part of brow, and arches up in the middle of the brow leaving one looking surprised. Eyebrows that are too long and come too far down can make eyes look droopy. If you try to arch your eyebrows too high above the bone, it will look unnatural. You should tweeze little or no hair from the ends of the brows, and you always want to make sure the brows are trailing off in an upward and outward direction, and never downward.

To find your natural arch: Draw an invisible line from the corner of the nose straight up towards the forehead (a). This is where the eyebrows should start. The arch should fall just outside the pupil if you’re holding the pencil at a diagonal from the outer corner of the nostril (b). The eyebrow should extend and then end in a straight line from outer nostril to the end of the eye (c).

Q

What should you do if you’ve over-plucked?

A

Brow Rehab

Most people over-tweeze or are just tweezing too often. More than anything, people want thicker brows, but they are under the impression that they cannot grow them. Pulling out a few hairs everyday can profoundly affect how the rest of the brow grows. I have developed what I call Brow Rehab. Clients surrender their brows to my management to allow them to grow out.

“Your brows become only as high maintenance as you train them to be.”

The first 2-3 months of putting the tweezers down are the hardest, but by then brows become trained and the growth cycle synchronized. And any hair removal occurs all at once, rather than every few days or weeks. Your brows become only as high maintenance as you train them to be.

Q

When should you tint and why?

A

Using vegetable dyes to lighten or richen/darken the eyebrows is the best way to soften or add fullness and definition to a light or sparse-looking eyebrow. Most clients color their hair, so why not color the eyebrows to match? The look is very natural and slowly fades out after 3-4 weeks without leaving a line of demarcation or roots.

Q

Is it better to pluck or wax?

A

I prefer tweezing because it is the most precise and the least irritating form of epilation. I have always preferred and only ever tweezed. I believe it is the only way to achieve the softly diffused “feathered” look. Waxing the skin around the eye area over time can cause diminished elasticity in the skin, and may lead to premature sagging. Waxing can also cause skin irritation or breakouts.

 

Brow Products We Love

Tea Tree Oil
Tweezerman
Brow Brush
Tea Tree Oil

We use this right after waxing or plucking to prevent breakouts.

Tweezerman

Tweezerman makes the best tweezers in small, travel-friendly sizes.

Brow Brush

This is a great tool for combing your brows into shape. Use the pointed side for adding any color if needed.

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