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This unapologetically fancy restaurant (crushed velvet booths, crystal chandeliers, a 10,000-bottle-deep wine cellar) can elevate any evening, though it’s an undertaking of all kinds, so save it for a special occasion. It’s the brainchild of two outstanding chefs, John Folse and Rick Tramonto, so fittingly, the menu is a combination of two culinary schools: traditional Cajun and Creole, and experimental. Death by Gumbo, for instance, is served with a whole, stuffed quail, the contents of which—oysters, andouille sausage, and rice—spill out into the broth when sliced. Also of note are the beer-battered crab fritters and epic caviar “staircase.” The fried oyster salad with blue cheese and bacon is insane.

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