Travel

This place is as cavernous as a high school basketball court, but it’s inevitably jam-packed with Chinese folks. Lots of them are elderly, telling you that it’s good and cheap. The deep-fried radish cakes, Chinese beignets, and crackly-skinned pork belly here are the best. Always order off the menu and get things freshly made—this is especially important with the fried and steamed items, which lose too much of their magic when they’re wheeled around that enormous room. Get here before the rush. Park in one of the city lots and then wander around old Chinatown to work off those delicious calories.

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