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    Street Food, goop’d

    We love street food, and for great reason. Quick, cheap and full of flavor, nothing can give you a sense of a place better than its big, local flavors. Since we try to keep it clean over here (for the most part) we have tweaked some of our faves to give them a goop bent. Also, we have exciting contributions by Susan Feniger of STREET, Ross Shonhan of Bone Daddies, and Andy Ricker of Pok Pok. See below.

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    Grilled Corn with Queso Fresco, Lime & Chili, Mexico

    You can find grilled corn on the street in many different countries, but we particularly love the Mexican version with queso fresco, lime and chili. We add vegenaise for some creaminess though mayo works fine as well. The lime and sea salt are crucial here especially if you’re using yellow corn, which can sweeten up a lot when grilling.

    ingredients
    makes 2

    • 2 ears of corn, shucked
    • 1 tablespoon vegenaise or mayonnaise
    • ½ a lime
    • a knob of queso fresco
    • pinch of sea salt
    • pinch red chili flakes
    

    preparation

    1. Pre-heat a grill (or grill pan) over medium high heat.

    2. Place corn on grill and grill for about a minute on each side, until nicely charred all around.

    3. Add a dollop of vegenaise and crumble the queso fresco over the top. Then, add a healthy squeeze of lime and a sprinkling of sea salt and red chili flakes. Eat immediately.

    Brown Rice Onigiri, Japan

    These Japanese fast food morsels are great food on the go, especially if using veggies as the filling. We use brown rice to make it a bit healthier and roll them into flat little balls, though squares or triangles work well, too.

    ingredients
    makes 4

    • ½ cup brown sushi rice
    • 1 cup water
    • 2 tablespoons rice vinegar (or sushi rice seasoning)
    • 2 green onions, sliced
    • filling: your choice of cubed avocado; cucumber; pickled vegetables; marinated tofu; cooked, flaked salmon; cooked, flaked tuna
    • wheat-free tamari or soy sauce (to dip)
    • nori strips (optional)
    • furikake seasoning (optional garnish)
    

    preparation

    1. Rinse brown rice and soak for a few hours if you have time. If you have a rice cooker, place rice and water in and cook until nice and sticky. If not, place rice and water in a heavy-bottomed pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to medium-low, cover and let simmer for about 45 minutes, until the water has absorbed and grains are cooked through. Be sure to keep an eye on the last few minutes of cooking as rice will burn once the water's absorbed.

    2. Keep rice covered for about 10 minutes once it’s off the heat. Uncover and fluff with a fork. Add the rice vinegar or sushi rice seasoning. Let rice cool before shaping.

    3. The easiest way to form the balls is to scoop a palmful of rice into your hand. Wet the fingers of your free hand slightly and make a small dent in the center. Grab your filling and place in the dent. Close your hand to cover the filling and create a ball. Add more rice to keep filling in the center if you need to.

    4. With slightly wet fingers, fasten nori strip around the slightly flattened ball.

    5. Set balls on serving plate. Sprinkle the furikake and green onions if you'd like and serve with soy sauce, or wheat-free tamari.

      Jeans  

    Despite the fact that we have many varied options, we continue to find ourselves going to work/doing the school run, etc. in jeans. We are putting ourselves to the challenge of eliminating jeans from our wardrobe for one whole week.

    Please send us your inspired non-denim looks here. We will post our favorites in an upcoming issue.

    Papaya Salad, Thailand

    Inspired by Thai street dish "Som Tam," we use ripe papaya (easier to find stateside) instead of the raw green papaya found in the Thai version and skip the dried shrimp. This is ubiquitous on the city streets, usually served with a side of sticky rice.

    ingredients
    makes 2

    • ½ papaya, peeled and sliced into long, thin strips
    • 2 carrots, peeled and sliced into thin strips
    • 1 medium cucumber, peeled and sliced into thin strips
    • 1 large tomato, thinly sliced
    • ¼ cup roasted, unsalted peanuts, crushed
    • handful of cilantro

    for the dressing:

    • ½ clove garlic
    • ½ red chili, de-seeded
    • 3 tablespoons fish sauce
    • juice of ½ lime juice
    • 1 teaspoon agave nectar

    preparation

    1. To make the dressing, add the garlic and the chili (use less if you don't like it too spicy) to a mortar and pestle. Bash together to form a paste. Add to a mixing bowl with agave, fish sauce and lime. Whisk together until combined.

    2. On a large plate, layer the papaya, carrots, cucumber, and tomato. Sprinkle cilantro and peanuts on top. Pour dressing over the top and give a gentle toss to combine (you want to be careful not to break the papaya).

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    Chicken Gyro Salad, Greece

    Inspired by the super-tasty classic Greek gyro, we marinate and then grill chicken strips and serve over tomato, onion, cucumber salad with pita 'croutons' and tzatiki dressing for a lighter, healthier version.

    ingredients
    makes 2

    • 2 organic boneless, skinless chicken breasts, sliced into thin strips
    • 1 head romaine lettuce, washed & dried
    • ½ red onion, sliced
    • 2 small-medium ripe red tomatoes, sliced
    • 2 pitas
    • 2 small cucumbers, chopped
    • 2 large cloves garlic
    • 1-2 lemons
    • dried oregano
    • paprika
    • olive oil
    • sea salt
    • freshly ground pepper

    for the dressing:

    • ½ small cucumber, minced
    • 1 large clove garlic
    • 1 small container Greek yogurt
    • 1 lemon
    • olive oil
    • sea salt
    • freshly ground pepper
    

    preparation

    1. Place chicken strips in a container with a lid. Crush garlic and place over chicken. Season with salt, pepper, oregano and tiny bit of paprika for color. Squeeze over the juice of half a lemon and drizzle enough olive oil to form a paste with the seasonings. Mix to coat with your hands (wash hands thoroughly!). Cover and marinate for a few hours or overnight.

    2. To make the tzatziki dressing: shave or grate one clove of garlic into a small bowl with the minced cucumber. Add the yogurt and the juice of a whole lemon. Drizzle in about 3 tablespoons of olive oil while whisking. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

    3. To make the pita croutons*: pre-heat oven to 375°F. Brush the pita with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange on a baking sheet and place in oven for about 5 minutes on each side until they begin to harden. Remove from oven, let cool and break into pieces.

    4. Heat a grill pan over medium-high heat. Add chicken strips in a single layer and cook for about 3 minutes on each side, pushing down every so often with a fork to really get a nice char going, until golden brown and cooked through. Set aside.

    5. Chop lettuce and place into a large bowl. Add tomatoes, onions, cucumbers and pita chips. Season with salt and pepper. Top with chicken strips, drizzle as much dressing as you like and mix to serve.

    * Note: You can also skip the pita croutons if you’re low on time and just serve with some fresh pita bread.

    Buckwheat Chocolate-Hazelnut Crêpes, France

    Inspired by the classic Nutella crêpes found all over Paris, we give ours a gluten-free makeover by using buckwheat flour, which lends a deliciously nutty undertone, and is actually the signature crêpe of Brittany. Breizh Café‎ in Paris is famous for their galettes de blé noir (buckwheat crêpes) and prove that this classic indulgence made a tiny bit healthier can still be just as delicious.

    ingredients
    makes 4

    • 1 cup buckwheat flour
    • 2 cups milk (almond milk works just as well)
    • 1 egg
    • a few tabs of butter
    • chocolate-hazelnut spread (there are a lot of great organic options out there, without preservatives or corn syrup)
    

    preparation

    1. Combine the flour and milk in a large mixing bowl. Add the egg while whisking, and mix until smooth.

    2. Place a crêpe pan or a frying pan (with the most shallow sides possible) over medium high heat. Lightly butter the skillet and pour a few tablespoons of the batter into the pan and immediately swirl to coat the whole pan with the batter you’ve just poured (it should be a very thin layer).

    3. Cook for about a minute, until the crêpe sets and begins to brown around the edges. Loosen the edges with a spatula, and very carefully flip the crêpe and cook for about another 30 seconds. Transfer to a plate and immediately spread about a tablespoon of chocolate-hazelnut spread to the middle of the crêpe while it’s still hot.

    4. Fold over once lengthwise and then again the opposite way to create a triangular shape.

    Photography by Ali Allen.

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    Photos by Ari Seth Cohen. Photo of Linda Rodin by Ari Seth Cohen for Grey Magazine.

    Recipes from Susan Feniger’s STREET

    Chef Susan Feniger of Border Grill fame opened STREET in 2009, a restaurant incorporating street food flavors from around the world into each of the dishes served. We scored two great recipes.

    Tek-Tek Noodles with Chopped Peanut Sauce, Indonesia

    ingredients
    makes 4

    • 1 ½ tablespoons kosher salt
    • 1 (1 pound) package mi chay noodles (wide yakisoba-style wheat noodles)
    • 6 tablespoons canola oil
    • 2 small Japanese eggplants or 1 small regular eggplant, cut into thin strips
    • 1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into thin strips
    • 10 Asian long beans, or ¼ pound green beans, cut into 3-inch pieces
    • ½ red bell pepper, cut into thin strips
    • 2 heads baby bok choy, quartered lengthwise
    • ¼ pound firm dry-packed tofu cutlets, cut into strips
    • juice of 1 orange
    • 1 cup Tek-Tek sauce (recipe below)
    • 4 large eggs
    • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
    • 2 tablespoons sugar
    • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
    • ¼ cup sesame seeds, toasted
    

    preparation

    1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and season it with 1 tablespoon of the salt. (The general rule of thumb for cooking noodles is to use 4 quarts of water for every pound of noodles.) Add the noodles and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Drain in a colander.

    2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the eggplants and ½ teaspoon of the salt, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until slightly golden. Then add carrot, long beans, bell pepper, ½ teaspoon salt and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. All the vegetables should be cooked through, but not overly soft. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl, and add the tofu.

    3. Return the same skillet to the stove over medium-high heat, and make sure it gets hot before proceeding. Add 2 tablespoons oil and then, working very quickly and stirring continuously, add the noodles, then half the tek-tek sauce, and then the vegetable-tofu mixture. Turn off the heat and stir in the remaining tek-tek sauce.

    Tek-Tek Sauce

    ingredients
    makes 4

    • ¼ cup all-natural peanut butter, at room temperature
    • 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
    • 2 tablespoons tamarind puree
    • 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
    • 1 tablespoon sweet soy sauce (optional)
    • 2 tablespoons grated coconut palm sugar or packed dark brown sugar
    • 1 ½ tablespoons tahini
    • 4 dried arbol chiles, broken into pieces and seeds removed
    • 1 (2 inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
    • ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
    

    preparation

    1. Pour ¼ cup warm water into a blender. Add the peanut butter, vinegar, tamarind puree, low-sodium soy sauce, sweet soy sauce (if using), coconut palm sugar, tahini, chiles, ginger, and turmeric, and puree until completely smooth. Using a rubber spatula, scrape the sauce into a small bowl, and set it aside until ready to use. The sauce can be made up to 1 day in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

    Curried Sweet Potato Pancakes, India

    ingredients
    makes 15 cakes

    • 2 to 3 white onions, cut into a small dice (4 cups)
    • ¼ cup + 1 tablespoon canola oil
    • 1 ½ tablespoons whole cumin seeds
    • 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
    • ½ teaspoon ground coriander
    • ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
    • pinch of cayenne
    • pinch of fennel seeds
    • 1 tablespoon ginger, minced
    • 4 cups grated red yams or sweet potato
    • 1 ½ teaspoon kosher salt
    • 1 egg, beaten
    • 5 tablespoons whole wheat flour
    • 1 cup plain yogurt and chopped scallions for garnish
    

    preparation

    1. Combine the cumin seeds, mustard seeds, coriander, turmeric, cayenne, fennel seeds, and ginger in a small bowl and set aside.

    2. In a large sauté pan, heat ¼ cup of the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for approximately 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until caramelized to a golden brown.

    3. Reduce to low heat and add the spice/ginger mixture. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes more, to toast the spices. Remove from heat and place in mixing bowl.

    4. Add the yams or sweet potatoes, salt, egg and whole wheat flour to the mixing bowl. Mix the ingredients well to combine.

    5. Form the mixture into cakes approximately 3 inches in diameter.
     

    6. Heat a skillet with 1 tablespoon of oil and sauté the cakes over medium-low heat for approximately 3 to 4 minutes on each side. They are done when they are a crispy golden brown and the sweet potato is cooked through.

    7. Serve warm topped with yogurt and scallions.

    Recipes by Chef Susan Feniger and Chef Kajsa Alger from the STREET cookbook.


    Recipes from Ross Shonhan of Bone Daddies

    In 2012, Chef Ross Shonhan, formerly head chef at Zuma and previously Nobu, opened up his ramen operation in Soho, London. Serving up delicious variations on the Japanese specialty, the restaurant has lines around the block most days. Below, he gives us two recipes with street food inspiration.

    Note: To keep the integrity and precision of these recipes, we have kept the measurements as Chef Ross Shonhan indicates (even some of the liquid measurements are in grams, in order to be more exact.) You will need a scale in order to make these.

    Chicken Tantanmen Ramen, Japan

    "Tantanmen is one of the more recent additions to the world of ramen. It is an interpretation/adaptation of a Sichuan Chinese Dan Dan noodle which is typically spicy and packed with flavor. Currently we are the only ramen restaurant in London to serve this dish and it is a delicious but quite heavy ramen."

    ingredients
    Makes 4 portions

    for the stock (1.25 liters):

    Make a strong chicken stock adding fresh ginger, kombu seaweed, dried shitakes and leeks. Or, buy a good quality stock and flavor with the vegetables above.

    for the sesame tare:

    • 200g roasted white sesame seeds
    • 150g soy sauce
    • 100g sugar
    • 100g chili oil
    • 35g ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
    • 20g spring onion, cut into thin slivers
    • 250g sesame paste

    for the ground chicken:

    • 200g minced chicken
    • 20g tobanjan (Chinese hot bean sauce)
    • 160g soy sauce
    • 5g chili oil
    • 5g vegetable oil
    • 5g garlic, peeled and finely chopped
    • 5g ginger, peeled and finely chopped
    • 10g spring onion, finely chopped

    for the eggs:

    • 100ml soy sauce
    • 100ml water
    • 10g sugar
    • 4 soft-boiled eggs, peeled

    for the bamboo:

    • 200g canned and drained bamboo (or vacuum-packed cooked bamboo)
    • 5g sesame oil
    • 100g soy sauce
    • 10g sugar
    • a pinch or two of chili flakes, to taste

    to finish:

    • 1.25 liters strained hot stock
    • 110g fresh ramen noodles
    • 200g bean sprouts, blanched
    • 4 large leaves bok choy, blanched and chilled
    • 20g chives, cut really small
    • chili oil (make your own or buy a decent one)

    preparation

    1. First make the sesame tare (a seasoning base for your stock.) Place all the ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth.

    2. Stir-fry the minced chicken in the hot oil until brown, add the other ingredients and carry on cooking until good and dry. Set aside.

    3. For the eggs: mix together the soy, water and sugar, then marinate the eggs in this overnight if possible, but for at least three to four hours.

    4. For the bamboo: stir-fry the bamboo in the sesame oil until dry, then add the remaining ingredients and cook until dry.

    5. Before you begin to assemble, have everything ready and laid out, so you can work quickly. Have one pot ready with hot stock and another with boiling water, for cooking the noodles.

    6. Divide the tare between the four bowls and divide the stock equally too, then whisk until the tare has made the stock creamy.

    7. Cook the noodles, drain and divide between the four bowls. (We use fresh noodles and cook them for 20 seconds. If using packaged noodles, follow package directions.) Top with bean sprouts, bamboo, egg, ground chicken, bok choy and chives. Finish with as much chili as you dare, and serve.

    Fried Soft-Shell Crab (Kara-age) with Green Chili Ginger Dressing, Southern United States by way of South East Asia

    "This dish has street food roots both firmly in Southeast Asia but also in the southern United States. It’s probably because of the American influence on sushi in the West including the popular soft-shell crab roll that soft-shell crabs have become a popular dish in Japanese restaurants around the world."

    Green Chili ginger dressing

    ingredients
    makes 4 portions

    Part A:

    • 200g jalapeno chillies (canned or fresh)
    • 20g green chillies, de-seeded
    • 100g fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
    • 10g sea salt
    • 10ml grapeseed oil

    Part B:

    • 75ml soy sauce
    • 20ml lemon juice
    • 120ml rice vinegar
    

    preparation

    1. In a blender, blend all of part A until smooth and then slowly add liquids in part B and blend. (This makes a little more than you need but it keeps for a few days and makes a great spicy salad dressing.)

    Fried Soft-Shell Crab

    ingredients
    makes 4 portions

    • 4 soft-shell crabs (cleaned if live, or defrosted and dried on paper towel if frozen)
    • 100g potato starch
    • 2 liters of canola or rapeseed oil for frying
    

    preparation

    1. Heat the oil in a deep pot to roughly 370 °F.

    2. Coat the soft-shell crab in the potato starch and fry until crispy (roughly 4-5 mins) then drain on a paper towel.

    3. Serve while hot with the dressing for dipping.

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    Recipe from Andy Ricker of Pok Pok

    Andy Ricker is the owner and executive chef behind Pok Pok, with restaurants in Portland, OR and NYC. Since 1993, Andy spends several months each year traveling, eating, cooking, and studying food culture in Thailand. Below, he gives us a recipe from his travels.

    Het Paa Naam Tok (Forest Mushroom Salad), Thailand

    A warm and absolutely delicious Thai salad.

    ingredients
    makes 4

    • 4 cups, packed, mushrooms (King Oyster, Oyster, Shiitake, or any meaty wild mushroom) cut into large bite size chunks
    • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
    • kosher salt
    • pepper
    • ½ cup shallots or red onion, julienned
    • ½ cup mint, roughly chopped, plus extra for garnish
    • ½ cup cilantro, picked and torn, plus extra for garnish
    • 1 heaping tablespoon sticky rice powder, toasted (available at Southeast Asian markets)
    • chile powder

    for the dressing:

    • ¼ cup lime juice
    • ¼ cup thin soy (Thai brands like Healthy Boy will do the trick)
    • 1 tablespoon white sugar (or to taste)
    • 4 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh lemongrass, tender parts only
    • 1 tablespoon (or to taste) crushed dry chile powder (preferably a Thai brand)
    

    preparation

    1. Sauté mushrooms in pan over high heat with oil until tender, sprinkling with a little kosher salt and pepper. Turn heat off. (There should be some liquid that forms in the pan; this is good!) Leave it and the mushrooms in the pan. Allow to cool slightly until just hot to the touch.

    2. Add ingredients for dressing to pan and stir well. Allow all to cool until just warm.

    3. Add shallots or red onion, mint, cilantro and sticky rice powder and stir gently with large spoon, and transfer to a serving plate making sure to pull some of the herbs towards the top.

    4. Sprinkle with a few sprigs of mint and cilantro, a bit more toasted rice powder and chile powder. Herbs and shallots should not be cooked and soggy!

    5. Serve with rice.

    This week’s goop collaboration

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    A special thank you to the Dylan Hotel, Amsterdam for letting us shoot in the hotel.

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