Travel

For a taste of the picturesque countryside, look no further than La Colombe d’Or in Provence. Tucked between the hills of Nice and Alps Maritimes, this family-run inn, once favored by the likes of Picasso and Matisse, prides itself on a discretion decidedly unusual for the South of France. Here, this quiet rustic hotel has amassed a museum-worthy art collection of 20th century masters—Chagall, Calder, Braque, Matisse, and Picasso—all of whom were regulars and donated works in exchange for a stay or a few meals. A large Calder mobile hangs over the swimming pool; there’s a Léger mosaic mural overlooking the terrace. The rooms, housed in a simple stone façade, have a quiet, understated beauty, with four-poster beds, white duvets, and worn-in Oriental rugs. La Colombe d’Or remains delightedly old school, and bookings must be made by phone or requested in writing. The hotel is closed from October through Christmas.

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