Travel

The Detroit Guide

Detroit is not unfamiliar with change and reinvention, and yet for all its complexity, the Motor City is often primarily thought of as the land of automobiles. While this is undeniably a piece of Detroit’s fascinating narrative, the city has a great deal more to offer, particularly in the creative arts, which have long played a prominent role in Detroit’s past (from original urban murals to an iconic record label), and in continuing to shape the ever-changing city today. Museums like MOCAD share the work of brilliant Detroit artists with natives and visitors alike, while also making the case that Detroit is a destination for a diverse, international range of art. Throughout the city, there are extraordinary examples of storied architecture. In rare record shops, music from earlier decades lives on, while contemporary indie bands play in a mix of new venues and old (outrageously awesome) dive bars. Neighborhoods like Midtown (museum district, home to DIA and a transformed retail experience), Downtown (encompasses all of the city’s major stages from economic to operatic and athletic), and Corktown (a hipster dream) have seen waves of new chefs and restaurants come onto the scene. Several new boutique hotels are promised to debut in the next year or two. So, while what in part makes Detroit cool is that it doesn’t have all the familiar amenities and trends of frequently touristed cities, it is undeniably a city of reinvention, and we expect this guide to evolve with it.

Batch Brewing Company

1400 Porter St., Corktown | 313.338.8008

The craft beer scene (from Midtown neighbors Motor City and Jolly Pumpkin to riverside Atwater) is commendable across Detroit, but our favorite brewery is down the street from Trumbull & Porter hotel, in the more industrial area of Corktown. Batch Brewery gets a strong local crowd—on a nice (weeknight even) night, the picnic tables on the ivy-draped patio will be full of locals. Inside, there are more communal tables (where you'll find more locals playing board games), and the bar, which stands in front of Batch's house barrels. They have about twenty beers on offer, and it's not unlikely to come in when they've just tapped a new one. There's really something for every beer taste, but look out for a sour saison. The food here gets high marks from regulars, but Mudgie's is a popular food spot a couple blocks away.

Cafe D’Mongo’s Speakeasy

1439 Griswold St., Downtown

Larry Mongo's speakeasy first opened in the '80s—during those years, his son, Jerome, ran it as a night club with a focus on rap music. The space shuttered for more than 10 years during the '90s and early '00s when downtown Detroit was at its most desolate, but friends convinced Mongo to re-open for a one-night-only event in 2007 and he hasn't closed since. The place, which is cluttered with kitschy antiques and old photos, has live music on Fridays and Saturdays. Mongo himself can always be found somewhere in the restaurant, entertaining visitors with his crazy stories and often jumping on stage to sing karaoke with the band—he's a total character and very much beloved by locals from every part of the city.

Cliff Bell’s

2030 Park Ave., Downtown | 313.961.2543

Cliff Bell's first debuted in 1935, opened by John Clifford Bell, who ran a series of prohibition bars in Detroit before then. (Some say that he was among the first to have bar-stool seating at a saloon.) Bell, who was born in 1886, ran the mahogany and brass bar for the next two decades. In 1985, the club closed for a long spell, with renovation on the space beginning in 2005. Today, Cliff Bell's is known for its live music (particularly jazz) and 1920's feel. Bonus: Beyond drinks, the food menu here is legit.

El Club

4114 W. Vernor Hwy, Mexicantown | 313.436.1793

Music venue El Club opened in 2016 in a renovated space in Mexicantown that is part bar and part concert hall, with a generous outdoor garden and couch-lounge area attached. Their show line-up (most begin at 8pm) gets good buzz, but this is also a fun place to hang outside of show hours, too. It has a slightly throw back vibe; the bar is long with a sole TV in the far corner and DJ set-up in another (this isn't a quiet spot), and a neon "El Club" sign hangs high in cursive. Pizza (not just cheese-only bar slices but margherita, sausage and pepperoni, vegan pie with tahini dressing, kimchi-style, a handful of white pies, and so on) is served by Pepe Z on-site. El Club can also be rented out for private parties.

Green Dot Stables

2200 W. Lafayette Blvd., Corktown | 313.962.5588

The always-packed Green Dot is situated in a parking lot among warehouses; it looks like an average Irish pub from the outside, but inside it's much more kitchsy—and wonderful. For food, it's sliders with a twist: quinoa burgers with kale and chimichurri, grilled cheese, gyros, BBQ bacon with sweet potato. At $3 a piece, you might expect them to be microscopic—but they're actually quite big. For drinks, there are Detroit and Michigan beers on tap, plus bottles from local breweries like Atwater, and cocktails—all for $3 each (not kidding).

Standby

225 Gratiot Ave., Downtown | 313.736.5533

The Belt is a short alley downtown (in a former garment district) decorated with wall art, graffiti, and hanging, glimmering lights that connects Grand River to Gratiot Avenue. (It's in part a project of adjacent gallery, Library Street Collective.) Tucked into the Gratiot end of the Belt, is a speakeasy-like bar called Standby that serves flowery craft cocktails and elevated bar snacks (confit duck salad, whisky mushroom pierogi, beets and ricotta with watercress and mint). Spots at the intimate bar are date-worthy, while the tables opposite, framed by a wrap-around booth draw groups.

Sugar House

2130 Michigan Ave., Corktown | 313.962.0123

Sugar House (which has gone by a couple different names) was one of the earlier places to move into this now more lively stretch of Michigan Avenue in Corktown, and it's arguably the spot to go in Detroit for cocktails. (It's owned by Dave Kwiatkowski, who is also half the duo behind Downtown restaurant Wright & Company.) The dimly lit interior is a mix of Victorian style and cabin/hunting decor with a long, wood bar and large chandelier hanging over the table in the front window space. The bartenders here make all the classics (including the Detroit gin signature, "Last Word," with green chartreuse and lime) and seasonal originals (marked on the menu for their Michigan ingredients and Detroit-specific ingredients). Keep an eye out for the mixing of an old-fashioned with smoke in the bottle.

The Old Miami

3930 Cass Ave., Midtown | 313.831.3830

There are entire guides dedicated to the dive bar culture in Detroit—and deservedly so, the city has an impressive collection of classics. One standout is hipster watering hole, The Old Miami, fittingly described by a Detroit native as "reminiscent of your grandparents' basement," albeit pretty rad grandparents. Think: flannel blankets, velvet-ribbed rocking chairs, Vietnam-era posters, Christmas tree lights, pinball. Today, part of the appeal of The Old Miami—which dates back to the 70's and was originally designed as a bar for Veterans—is its live music scene. In warmer months, there is also the unexpectedly large outdoor area with eccentric, mismatched patio furniture.

The Royce

76 W. Adams Ave., Downtown | 313.481.2160

The Royce moved into the Kales building (designed in 1914 by architect legend Albert Kahn) in early 2016, taking up an expansive two-story space that has become part wine shop, part wine bar. Partners Angela Rutherford and Ping Ho wanted The Royce to reflect both Detroit's industrial and deco background; the result is really lovely. A clean, curved white bar with a shiny white-tile background is situated opposite floor-to-ceiling shelving holding wine bottles from around the globe. The loft-like space perched above the bar is set up with small tables, long couches, and a cozy rug. You can buy the bottle or the glass and there are small food plates and cheeses to match.

Two James

2445 Michigan Ave., Corktown

There are a number of distilleries in Detroit; Two James is the OG. Housed in a warehouse-esque building in Corktown with a garage-door front, Two James has a circular bar that serves the house liquors, crafted in small batches that draw largely on local ingredients, including: Catcher's Rye whiskey, Grass Widow bourbon, Old Cockney gin, 28 Island vodka, Nain Rouge Absinthe Verte. You can take a tour of the distillery itself on Friday evening, or Saturday and Sunday afternoon.

UFO Factory

2110 Trumbull Ave., Corktown

This place even smells like a dive bar (which you get used to after the first drink). The entertainment here begins with a juke box and a handful of old-time arcade games—there's a pin ball machine, Centuri, Pac-Man (oh boy), surrounded by 70's styles chairs. They have live shows regularly (local bands but also some international players—there was an Aussie band playing last time we were in town) and dedicated movie nights, which all draw a young crowd. They've also got a popcorn maker, and somewhat low-key mostly vegan menu (with the exception of the hot dog) by Laika Dog Kitchen.