Travel

While the restaurant at this restored, turn of the century “maison” serves perfectly good French food and wine, the real draw here is the bar upstairs, where aside from making a number of pretty distinctive cocktails—including the Velloncino de Oro, a refreshing and enormous rosemary infused gin cocktail—the focus really is on absinthe and all its paraphernalia. Fittingly, at 7pm, a green light turns on at the entrance, meaning it’s time to head up to the Belle Epoque-themed living room with its velvet covered couches, stuffy old fashioned furnishings, and suspender-clad bartenders. Get there early for a chance to get upstairs, as there are often long lines.

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